Myers Sewage Pump Pit Sizing for Residential Homes
A silent sewage pit that’s undersized or poorly designed will tell on you at the worst moment—backed-up fixtures, foul odors, and a flooded basement ten minutes after your washer drains. I’ve walked into too many homes where the “septic problem” was really a pit problem: wrong size, wrong pump, wrong fittings. When the pit’s right, a quality Myers sewage pump runs cool, cycles correctly, and quietly moves solids without drama for years.
Meet the Khatris—Ravi (39), a teacher, and Priya (38), a nurse—living on 3 wooded acres outside Lewisburg, Pennsylvania with their kids, Mahi (9) and Dev (6). Their split-level has a finished lower level with a full bath and laundry that drains to a sewage ejector pit. Their two-year-old budget sewage unit failed after a holiday weekend laundry marathon; a cracked housing and a burnt motor later, they were mopping what nobody wants to mop. Their contractor initially blamed the pump. I blamed the pit: too small, no proper venting, and a discharge line pitched like a roller coaster. We rebuilt around a Myers sewage pump and sized the basin correctly—problem solved.
In this guide, I’ll show you how to size and spec a residential sewage pit the way we do at PSAM, so your Myers sewage pump runs like it’s supposed to:
1 covers fixture-unit math and peak load. #2 sets minimum basin diameters and depths. #3 matches solids handling and discharge size to your line. #4 gets run time and cycle expectations right. #5 dials in venting and check valve placement. #6 explains head calculations and pump curves. #7 isolates alarms and redundancy options that actually matter. #8 addresses materials, corrosion resistance, and long-term serviceability. #9 compares Myers vs common competitors in real basements. #10 wraps with install best practices I insist on.
If you’re a rural homeowner or a contractor who “gets the call” at 7 p.m. on a Sunday, these ten steps will save you callbacks, cleanups, and cash—and they’ll make a Myers sewage pump worth every single penny.
#1. Start with Load: Fixture Units to GPM — Basin Capacity, Peak Flow, and Pump Selection
Knowing what’s draining into the pit is half the battle. A basement full bath (toilet, lav, shower/tub) plus a washer will spike flow in bursts. Code fixture units convert to probable flow in GPM so you can select a basin volume and a pump that won’t short-cycle.
For typical residential pits, I plan around 12–20 GPM peak to keep ahead of a flushing toilet and a draining tub. A modern 1.6 GPF toilet can dump fast and stack with a 2” trap-shower discharge; add a front-loader washing machine and you’ve got short, heavy surges. A correctly sized Myers sewage pump paired with the right basin lets your pump run a clean, cool 10–30 second cycle, then rest.
For the Khatris, the lower level had one toilet, a tub/shower, a vanity, and a laundry standpipe. We calculated 14–18 GPM probable peak. Their old pit was just 18" diameter—too tight. We upsized the basin and selected a Myers sewage pump with a 2" solids pass to easily handle real-life loading.
Calculate Fixture Load Correctly
Convert fixture units to GPM using local code guidance or standard conversion tables. Prioritize surges: toilets and washers often overlap. Always design for peak minute, not average hour. This ensures your Myers pump never chases the load.
Allow Surge Volume in the Basin
Reserve 30–50 gallons of working volume between “on” and “off” levels. That keeps runtime long enough to cool the motor and clears lines. Oversizing here is gentler on the system than oversizing the pump.
Plan for Future Fixtures
Rough-in stubs for a second vanity or a utility sink? Add them to your fixture unit tally now. Sizing the basin once is cheaper than jackhammering later.
Key takeaway: Peak flow governs basin volume. Size the pit to the surge, then choose the pump to comfortably clear it.
#2. Basin Diameter and Depth — 24" Minimum, 30–36" Preferred for Reliable Cycling
A proper sewage basin isn’t a bucket; it’s a tank with enough diameter and depth for volume, floats, and service access. The baseline I recommend is a 24" diameter by 30–36" deep basin for a single bath and laundry.
Bigger diameter does two things: more working volume per inch of water level and better clearance for float switches. Depth buys you longer runtimes and a quieter system. A Myers sewage pump needs clean float swing space—free of discharge elbows and cords—to avoid nuisance cycling.
When we rebuilt for the Khatris, we replaced the undersized 18" basin with a 24" x 36" sealed tank. That alone fixed 70% of their headaches. Tied to a Myers unit, it also meant every cycle moved a meaningful volume.
Working Volume Math
One vertical inch in a 24" diameter basin holds roughly 2 gallons. A 12" differential between “on” and “off” yields about 24 gallons per cycle—good runtime for a residential sewage pump.
Float Clearance and Cord Management
Float switches need 3–5" radial clearance. Use a float tree or commercial mounting bracket to keep cords tidy. Avoid contact with the pump housing and discharge elbow.
Lid, Gaskets, and Seals
A gasketed, bolted lid with cord grommets is critical. Sewer gas is corrosive and unhealthy. A sealed basin also allows proper venting through the dedicated vent line, not into the room.
Bottom line: A 24" x 36" basin is the residential sweet spot. If space allows, 30" diameter is even better.

#3. Solids Handling and Discharge Size — 2" Solids Pass, 2" NPT to Match Residential Lines
Residential sewage ejectors aren’t grinders; they’re solids-handling pumps designed for 2" spherical solids. Match that with a 2" discharge line throughout, and you’ve built in reliability. I specify a Myers sewage pump with a rugged impeller and a true 2" discharge for the vast majority of homes.
A mismatch—say a pump with a 2" outlet reduced to 1-1/2" piping—chokes velocity and invites clogs at fittings. Keep the discharge 2" to the main stack or building drain. If you’re dealing with long runs or many fittings, smooth-walled PVC and wide-sweep 90s are your friend.
For the Khatris, we reused the 2" PVC riser but replaced two tight 90s with sweeps. The Myers unit’s 2" discharge mated cleanly to the union and check valve assembly.
Why 2" Solids Pass Matters
A 2" spherical solids rating is not marketing fluff. It’s the difference between passing real-world materials and tearing down a pit after a clog. Myers designs are built to that standard.
Union + Check Valve Assembly
Install a 2" union above the pit lid, followed by a 2" check valve, then a ball valve for isolation. This makes future service sane and keeps the stack from backflowing during maintenance.
Horizontal Run and Pitch
Maintain 1/4" per foot pitch on horizontal sections before tying into the stack. Sagging or flat runs allow solids settlement—exactly what you don’t want.
Core point: Keep everything 2" from pump to tie-in. That consistency prevents avoidable service calls.

#4. Runtime and Cycle Control — Float Differential, 30–45 Seconds per Cycle for Cool Operation
Short-cycling kills sewage pumps. The motor never sheds heat, the start components wear, and the impeller chews on semi-stagnant waste. I target 30–45 seconds minimum runtime per cycle for a typical residential pit, sometimes more for longer runs or higher head.
Float differential—distance between “on” and “off”—creates working volume. Set too tight, you get 10-second sputters. Set too wide in a shallow basin, you risk higher resting levels. Proper basin depth solves this; proper float placement fine-tunes it.
After the Khatris upgraded to a deeper basin, we set a 12" differential using a vertical float kit calibrated to the Myers pump’s best operating range. Their runtime went from 8–12 seconds to a consistent 35–40 seconds. Cool, quiet, reliable.
Use Float Trees
A float tree keeps switches stable and serviceable from the lid. Avoid tethered floats in tight basins; they snag and change state unpredictably.
Stagger Alarm Level
Set a high-water alarm a few inches above “on,” not at the lid. Early warning buys you repair time before an overflow.
Minimize Starts Per Hour
Aim for no more than 10 starts per hour under normal use. If you’re constantly hitting 15–20, you need more working volume or a different float strategy.
Takeaway: Give your Myers pump time to do its job each cycle. It’ll pay you back in longer life.
#5. Venting and Odor Control — Dedicated Vent, Sealed Lid, and Proper Trap Management
Sewage pits need a dedicated vent—full stop. Venting keeps the pit at neutral pressure, protects fixtures from siphoning, and controls odors by directing gases to the roof termination. A sealed, gasketed lid with cord grommets is not optional; it’s part of the system.
I see “missing vent” more than I should. The result is slow drains, burping fixtures, and sulfur odor in finished spaces. The fix is straightforward: run a proper vent line sized per code, tie it to an approved vent path, and seal the basin.
The Khatris’ old setup had no vent—just a loose lid with duct tape. We added a 2" vent to the home’s vent stack and used a bolted, gasketed lid. Odors disappeared overnight.
Vent Size and Routing
Match the basin vent size to code—commonly 2". Keep runs vertical where possible and avoid long horizontal sections below the roofline to prevent condensation traps.
Trap and Trap Primers
Every fixture feeding the pit still needs a trap. If you have floor drains in the basement, consider trap primers to prevent evaporation and odor.
Backwater and Cleanouts
Include a cleanout near the pit outlet and consider a backwater device if house stacks are vulnerable to public sewer surcharges.
Bottom line: Vent it like a plumbing pro, and your Myers pit system will stay odor-free and compliant.
#6. Total Dynamic Head (TDH) and Pump Curves — Select by Feet of Head, Not Horsepower Alone
Choosing a Myers sewage pump by horsepower is guesswork; choosing by TDH is engineering. Calculate TDH as the sum of vertical lift, friction loss through pipe and fittings, and the pressure required at discharge (usually minimal for gravity tie-ins).
A typical residential pit that lifts 8–12 feet to the main, with 2" PVC and a handful of elbows, lands in the 12–18 feet TDH range at 15–20 GPM. That’s squarely where a Myers sewage pump shines, giving you strong flow without over-amping.
For the Khatris, we measured an 11-foot vertical rise and about 30 feet of 2" horizontal plus two sweeps and one wye. Calculated TDH at 16–18 feet with 15–18 GPM. We selected a Myers model whose curve shows comfortable output at that point—no straining, no short-cycling.
Read the Pump Curve
Plot your operating point (GPM vs ft of head). Choose the model where your point lands near the middle of the curve, not at the ragged edge. That’s where efficiency and durability live.
Account for Fittings
Each 90-degree elbow in 2" PVC adds the equivalent of several feet of straight pipe. Use sweep fittings to reduce friction and keep velocities steady.
Voltage and Amperage
Most residential units run 115V single-phase. Verify the branch circuit can deliver the starting amperage without nuisance trips. Myers specs make this clear; follow them.
Key idea: The right Myers pump is the one that matches your TDH and flow—period.
#7. Alarms, Redundancy, and Power — High-Water Alerts, Duplex Options, and Circuit Discipline
An audible/visual high-water alarm is cheap insurance. If the pump fails or a breaker trips, you get alerted before the basin breaches. For higher-risk homes—daycare in the basement, frequent travel—consider duplex pits with alternating controls.
Power matters. Run a dedicated circuit sized for the pump’s full-load amperage and inrush. Avoid GFCI where not required on sewage pumps; nuisance trips are far worse than a standard breaker trip.
For the Khatris, we installed an external alarm with a battery backup and labeled the dedicated 20A circuit at the panel. With two young kids downstairs a lot, that alarm is peace of mind.
Alarm Float Placement
Mount the alarm float above the pump “on” level by a few inches. This provides early warning without constant nuisance chirps during normal surge conditions.
Duplex Considerations
If you host multi-family, short-term rentals, or medical equipment downstairs, a duplex pit with lead/lag pumps and an alternating controller is money well spent.
Surge and Lightning
In storm-prone regions, add surge protection. Myers motors are robust, but a $40 surge device is cheap risk management.
Recommendation: Add the alarm now. You’ll thank yourself later.
#8. Materials and Serviceability — Corrosion Resistance, Sealed Components, and Field-Friendly Design
Sewage is corrosive. Moisture, hydrogen sulfide, and cleaning chemicals attack cheap materials. I favor robust housings, sealed motor cavities, and stainless steel fasteners. Myers builds sewage pumps with a focus on durability and real-world service: sealed bearings, reliable shaft seals, and components that hold up.
A service-friendly pit is just as important: a union above the lid, a true 2" check valve, and enough cord to pull the pump cleanly. Label everything. Install a cord grommet that actually seals. Future-you—or the next tech—will appreciate it.
At the Khatris, we used a heavy-duty basin with a bolted lid and stainless hardware. The Myers pump’s stout build and clean discharge geometry made the install straightforward and the future service points obvious.
Corrosion-Resistant Components
Look for stainless steel fasteners, durable impeller materials, and sealed housings. Avoid thin thermoplastic check valves; go with a full-port 2" PVC or brass-bodied unit designed for sewage service.
Cord, Strain Relief, and Grommets
Use strain reliefs to protect cords at the lid. Grommets should be tight to prevent gas escape. Don’t leave cords rubbing against discharge piping.
Access and Labeling
Label the circuit, the alarm, and the float roles. A laminated schematic on the wall next to the pit saves time in emergencies.
Essential point: Build it like you’ll be the one servicing it. Myers pumps reward that mindset.
#9. Myers vs The Rest in Residential Sewage Pits — Real Differences That Prevent Floods
When you’re choosing a sewage pump for a residential pit, materials, motor protection, and solids handling separate winners from replacements. Here’s how Myers stacks up against common options I see in the field.
Technical performance analysis: Myers sewage pumps are engineered with rugged components, proven seals, and impellers designed for true 2" solids. Motors include robust thermal protection, and the assemblies are built for continuous-duty surges without glazing bearings. In contrast, some budget options—think Everbilt and Flotec units—use lighter housings and less robust seals that struggle with heat during rapid cycles. Compared with Goulds Pumps in certain cast-iron configurations, Myers’ emphasis on corrosion resistance inside the pit environment and consistent solids-handling geometry has paid off in fewer jam calls and cooler operation.
Real-world application differences: In basements where laundry and a full bath converge, Myers units run quieter with smoother starts and less vibration. Maintenance is straightforward thanks to predictable discharge geometries and field-friendly service clearances. Budget pumps often short-cycle to failure in undersized basins. With Goulds, I’ve serviced solid units, but I’ve also seen cast components surface-rust and fasteners fight you during service in gassy pits.
Value proposition conclusion: For families depending on a dry, livable lower level, Myers’ build quality, solids-handling reliability, and PSAM-backed support are worth every single penny.
Where Myers Shines
Reliable 2" solids handling Strong thermal protection Service-friendly design
Budget Brand Pitfalls
Short-cycling vulnerability Seal and bearing fatigue Service headaches
Contractor Confidence
PSAM stocks the right accessories, ships fast, and supports Myers setups with field-proven guidance. That’s jobsite gold.
#10. Installation Practices That Make or Break Pits — Seals, Slopes, and Smart Details
A great pump in a bad pit still fails. Tie the system together with disciplined installation, and you’ll own a quiet, dependable setup that disappears into the background of family life.
Use a torque-calibrated approach: set the pump, align the discharge, tighten unions, confirm float swing, and water-test before closing the lid. I flood-test basins with a hose to verify on/off levels, discharge integrity, and alarm function. If something’s off, fix it wet, not later.
We did exactly this at the Khatris’ home. Before closing, Priya ran the washer drain while Ravi flushed and ran the shower. The Myers sewage pump cycled twice, moved the surge smoothly, and the alarm stayed quiet. That’s the test you want.
Seal Everything
Gasketed lid bolted down Cord grommets tight Vent line glued and strapped No “temporary” tape fixes
Pipe Smart
2" discharge with sweeps True-union check valve above the lid Labeled isolation valve Cleanout accessible
Commissioning Checklist
Verify float levels and alarm Record TDH assumptions and model Label panel breaker and test GFCI/standard as applicable
Final word: Detail work creates reliability. With a properly sized pit, a Myers pump becomes the quiet hero of your home.
Comparison Focus: Myers vs Goulds and Everbilt in Residential Pits
Technical performance analysis: A Myers sewage pump emphasizes dependable solids passage, robust seal assemblies, and motor protection that tolerates real-life surges from washers and tubs. Goulds offers respectable sewage options, but select models rely on cast components that, in gas-heavy pits, accumulate corrosion that complicates long-term service. Everbilt budget units often prioritize initial cost with lighter housings, smaller windings, and more delicate impeller designs, all of which show stress during frequent short cycles.
Real-world application differences: In 24" x 36" residential basins, a Myers unit typically runs cooler because it moves meaningful volume per cycle and tolerates repeated surges without binding. Goulds can be a solid performer, yet I’ve replaced several in odor-prone pits where corrosion seized fasteners. Everbilt? I’ve changed too many after 18–30 months due to seal leaks or motor thermal trips, usually in undersized pits.
Value proposition conclusion: For homeowners counting on a lower-level bath and laundry that “just work,” Myers’ reliability, PSAM’s same-day shipping, and my field backing add up to fewer emergencies and lower lifetime cost—worth every single penny.
FAQ: Myers Sewage Pump Pit Sizing and Selection
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my pit and household load?
Start with TDH and flow, not horsepower. Calculate vertical lift (pit waterline to tie-in), add friction losses for 2" PVC and fittings, and target your operating point around 12–20 GPM for a residential bath and laundry. Most homes land near 1/2 to 3/4 HP sewage pumps when TDH is 12–20 feet. A 1/2 HP Myers unit can move 70–100 GPM at low head and 20–30 GPM at moderate head; what matters is your point on the curve. For example, an 11-foot rise plus 30 feet of 2" pipe and three fittings often nets ~16–18 feet TDH at 15–18 GPM. Choose the Myers model whose curve shows comfortable output there, leaving margin for surge. I’d only push to 1 HP if you have long horizontal runs, many fittings, or an unusual tie-in pressure requirement. Rick’s rule: size the pump to your curve, then verify amperage and circuit capacity.
2) What GPM should I plan for, and how do cycles affect performance?
Plan for 12–20 GPM handling, not because you need that continuously, but because surges (toilet + washer) hit hard for short windows. A 24" diameter x 36" deep basin gives roughly 24 gallons of working volume with a 12" float differential (2 gallons per vertical inch). That usually yields 30–45 second cycles, which lets a Myers pump run cool. Multi-stage pressure behavior isn’t part of sewage pumps like it is for clean-water well pumps; here, impeller design is about solids handling and torque. Aim for longer, fewer cycles. If you see 10-second bursts, widen the float differential or deepen the basin. For families like the Khatris, we targeted ~16 GPM at 16–18 feet TDH, and the Myers pump cleared each surge cleanly.
3) How does Myers achieve high efficiency and reliable operation in sewage applications?
While “80%+ hydraulic efficiency” is a hallmark of the Myers Predator Plus clean-water series, the sewage line focuses on torque, solids handling, and thermally protected motors that survive surge duty. Efficiency here is about doing real work per cycle without overheating. Myers pairs well-designed impellers with robust motors and quality seals so your pump starts confidently and runs cool. In practice, that means fewer false starts, cleaner discharge, and lower chance of lockups. The payoff is fewer service calls over 8–12 years when installed in a properly sized basin. PSAM backs this with fast access to pump curves and accessory kits that simplify correct installs.
4) Why is corrosion resistance so important inside a sewage pit?
Sewer gas contains hydrogen sulfide and moisture that eat weaker metals and cheap fasteners. Corroded screws shear during service, and surface rust migrates into seals and cords. Myers sewage pumps are built with corrosion-resistant fasteners and sealed components designed for this environment. Combine that with a sealed, gasketed basin lid to control gas exposure, and your hardware lasts. Contrast that with budget brands that use lighter plating or thin thermoplastic components; once those deform or corrode, you’re fighting the pit to do basic maintenance. My field take: corrosion control is why some pumps last a decade and others don’t.
5) Do I need a grinder pump or is a standard sewage ejector enough?
Most single-family basements with a full bath and laundry need a standard 2" solids-handling sewage ejector, not a grinder. A grinder pump macerates solids and is suited to long, small-diameter pressure lines or when you’re pushing uphill a long distance with limited pipe size. If you have a conventional 2" discharge into the building drain within 15–25 vertical feet and reasonable run length, a Myers sewage ejector is correct. The Khatris, for example, needed reliable 2" solids handling, not grinding. If you’re unsure, share your layout and I’ll run the curve and application with you.
6) What size basin should I use for a basement bath and laundry?
Go 24" diameter minimum and 30–36" deep. That gives you 24–30 gallons of working volume with a 12–15" float differential—great for 30–45 second runtimes. If space allows, 30" diameter basins add margin and calm operation. Always use a sealed lid, cord grommets, and a dedicated vent. The difference between 18" and 24" diameter is the difference between 8-second and 35-second runtimes; I’ve seen this change alone extend pump life by years.
7) Can I install the Myers sewage pump myself?
https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/1-2-hp-submersible-well-pump-9-stage-design.html
If you’re comfortable with plumbing code, venting, and electrical, a DIY install is possible. You’ll need to:
Set a 24" x 36" sealed basin with proper bedding Run a dedicated 2" vent to an approved tie-in Plumb a 2" discharge with a union, check valve, and isolation valve Set floats with correct differential and test with water Provide a dedicated circuit per nameplate amperage
That said, many homeowners hire a pro for venting and discharge tie-in to guarantee code compliance. PSAM provides the pump, the check valve kit, and phone support; you handle the wrenches. If you’re adding a duplex system or complex tie-ins, bring in a licensed plumber.
8) What’s the difference between a 2-wire and 3-wire configuration—does it apply here?
2-wire vs 3-wire applies to submersible well pumps, not sewage ejectors. Sewage pumps in residential basins are typically plug-in 115V single-phase units with integral thermal protection and float-based controls. You’ll wire an alarm on a separate circuit if desired. If you’re also upgrading your well system, Myers offers both 2-wire and 3-wire submersible well pumps with Pentek XE motors, but that’s a separate system from your sewage pit.
9) How long will a properly installed Myers sewage pump last?
In a correctly sized, well-vented basin with proper float settings and a 2" discharge, expect 8–12 years of service life, often longer in moderate-use homes. Factors that shorten life: short-cycling (tiny basins), frequent thermal trips, no vent (gas-laden environment), and poor piping layouts. I’ve serviced Myers units at the 10-year mark that showed minimal wear because the basin volume and cycle timing were dialed. The Khatris’ system is set up for long life: 24" x 36" basin, 12" differential, 2" discharge with sweeps, and a properly routed vent.
10) What maintenance should I plan for each year?
Test the alarm quarterly Cycle the pump with water and watch on/off timing Inspect cord grommets and lid bolts for seal integrity Listen for change in noise—grinding or rattling signals debris or wear Verify the check valve closes quietly (no water hammer)
Every 2–3 years, consider a pit inspection to flush minor sediment and confirm float travel. Keep wipes and feminine products out of the system—no sewage pump is happy with those.
11) How does warranty coverage compare across brands?
Myers backs residential pumps with strong warranty support through PSAM. In the clean-water arena, Myers Predator Plus boasts an industry-leading 3-year warranty; in sewage applications, Myers’ warranty and service track record still outpace budget brands like Everbilt and Flotec, which often carry shorter terms and more exclusions. Goulds offers credible coverage but can be more rigid with dealer-only pathways. With PSAM, you get fast parts access and practical troubleshooting to keep downtime minimal. That support layer often matters more than paperwork.
12) What’s the 10-year cost of ownership—Myers vs budget pumps?
Let’s be candid. A budget sewage pump might cost half up front, but if it lasts 2–3 years and takes a seal or motor every other holiday, your replacement and cleanup costs stack fast. A properly sized pit with a Myers pump commonly runs 8–12 years with minimal service. Factor in avoided plumbing visits, fewer messes, and lower risk of finished-space damage, and the math leans hard toward Myers. Over a decade, expect one Myers purchase versus two to three budget replacements. That’s less hassle and, in most homes, less money overall.
Conclusion: Build the Pit Right, Trust Myers, and Get On with Life
A sewage ejector pit isn’t glamorous, but it’s the backbone of a livable basement. When you size the basin to the load, keep discharges a true 2", vent it correctly, and select a Myers sewage pump that matches your TDH and GPM, you get a quiet, reliable system that disappears into the background. The Khatris went from panic and mop buckets to a setup that just works: sealed 24" x 36" basin, smart float differential, 2" sweeps, high-water alarm, and a Myers pump that clears every surge without breaking a sweat.

If you want the same outcome, call PSAM. We stock the right Myers pumps, check valve kits, basins, and vent fittings, and we ship fast. More importantly, you get my field-tested sizing help before you glue a single joint. That’s the difference between “it runs” and “it runs for a decade.” With Myers and PSAM behind you, the investment is worth every single penny.
Rick’s Picks for a bulletproof residential sewage pit:
24" x 36" sealed basin with gasketed lid Myers 2" solids-handling sewage pump matched to 12–20 GPM at your TDH 2" union + check + isolation valve stack above the lid Dedicated 2" vent and labeled electrical circuit High-water alarm set inches above “on”
Ready to size yours? Share your vertical lift, horizontal run, fitting count, and tie-in details—I’ll help you pick the right Myers, the first time.