Myers Water Pump Start-Up Checklist for New Owners

Introduction: Your Well Water Can’t Wait—Get This Start-Up Right

The pressure gauge hit zero right as the washing machine locked with a half-load of muddy jeans. Faucets hissed. The shower gasped. Silence. A well pump failure doesn’t negotiate—no water means no cooking, no bathing, no livestock water, and no fire protection. In rural homes, a well pump is not a convenience; it’s life support. A proper start-up is the difference between 8-15 years of dependable service and a string of costly weekends pulling pipe.

Meet the Okonkwo family of Caldwell, Idaho. Uchenna (38), an agricultural aviation mechanic, and his wife, Clare (36), a middle school science teacher, live on 7 acres with their kids, Zoe (9) and Tayo (6). Their 260-foot basalt well feeds the home, a small garden irrigation line, and a two-stall barn. After a 3/4 HP budget pump from a big-box store gave them three spotty years, it died hard—burnt windings, scorched leads, and a cracked thermoplastic housing. The brand? Red Lion. The failure? Pressure cycling on a marginal pressure tank combined with sand-laced water. They needed a real fix, fast.

This start-up checklist is how I guide families like the Okonkwos and the contractors who support them to bring a new Myers Pump online the right way. We’ll cover stainless build quality and why it matters in mineral-heavy wells, motor wiring and control setup, correct pressure tank pre-charge, torque management, pitless adapter sealing, pressure switch calibration, flow testing to pump curves, and protection devices that save systems during lightning storms. We’ll even compare common alternatives and explain why Myers wins in real-world conditions. If you’re a new owner, a first-time installer, or doing an emergency replacement, run your start-up against this list. It’s written with decades of field troubleshooting, so you avoid the mistakes that kill pumps early.

What’s inside:

Verifying stainless materials and water chemistry fit Selecting horsepower by TDH and GPM, not guesswork Wiring and motor protection details that prevent burnouts Pipe, check valve, and pitless best practices Proper tank sizing and pre-charge for stable pressure Pressure switch tuning and surge protection Flow testing against the pump curve Start-up flushing, water quality baselines, and documentation

PSAM ships Myers Pumps same day and backs them with real support. I hand-pick the accessories. Follow the sequence below and give your new Myers submersible the start it deserves.

1. Myers Predator Plus Series Stainless Steel Construction - 300 Series Lead-Free Materials for 8-15 Year Lifespans


A new pump start-up begins before power ever hits the leads—confirming materials match your water chemistry protects your investment for the long haul. Corrosion does not wait.

The Myers Predator Plus Series uses a fully 300 series stainless steel shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, and suction screen. That’s not just marketing. In acidic or mineral-rich wells, stainless mitigates pitting and crevice corrosion that slowly eats housings and impellers. Combined with engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging, the hydraulic stack runs smooth even in sandy aquifers. This construction is UL and CSA listed, NSF compliant, and Made in USA, with staging engineered to hold efficiency as components wear. In plain English: it holds pressure longer, pulls fewer amps at the same duty point, and resists the grit that chews up ordinary pumps.

Compared to Goulds Pumps that still integrate cast iron in certain assemblies, stainless has a clear edge when water pH dips or iron bacteria thrives. Iron swells, flakes, and accelerates wear, while stainless remains corrosion resistant. Real-world result: longer service intervals and fewer “stuck impeller” calls. That durability is worth every single penny.

The Okonkwos’ old thermoplastic housing cracked under repeated pressure cycles. With their new Myers submersible well pump, stainless body and composite staging answered two issues at once: mineral-heavy water and thermal cycling from irrigation.

Pro Tip: Confirm Water Chemistry

Order a basic test for pH, hardness, and iron. If pH is under 6.5 or iron is above 0.3 ppm, stainless is essential. Myers’ stainless stack tolerates these conditions without premature pitting.

Material Checks at Unboxing

Inspect the shell and discharge for weld quality and finish. Verify the intake screen is clean, burr-free, and firmly affixed. Record serial numbers for warranty.

Install with Grit in Mind

Add a torque arrestor and cable guard. Where sand is present, consider a sediment barrier fixture topside. Myers’ self-lubricating impellers handle fines, but limiting grit always extends life.

Key takeaway: Stainless and composite staging make a real, measurable difference—start strong with materials that match your water.

2. Correct Horsepower and Staging - Size by TDH, GPM, and Pump Curve, Not Guesswork


Proper start-up depends on choosing a pump that can live at or near its best efficiency point (BEP). Oversize it and you short-cycle. Undersize it and it runs hot and dies young.

Use your TDH (total dynamic head) and system demand to choose horsepower and staging. For a 260-foot well like the Okonkwos’, static water level was 140 feet, drawdown 40 feet under load, plus 60 feet equivalent for friction and house pressure. TDH ~240 feet. Their house needs 8-10 GPM for two baths and irrigation bursts. The Myers Predator Plus in the 10 GPM curve at 1 HP with the right stages lands near BEP around that duty point—translating to cooler runs and longer life.

If you’re replacing a dead pump, don’t trust the last installer’s choice. Pull the data: depth, static level, drawdown, pipe length and diameter, number of elbows, and desired pressure. Myers curves make this math easy. Drop me a line at PSAM and I’ll run it with you.

The Okonkwos went from a strained 3/4 HP to a Myers 1 HP multi-stage pump at 230V. Cycling stopped. Pressure stabilized. Energy use dropped because the pump isn’t fighting its own curve.

Calculate TDH

Static level to pump: measure or estimate Drawdown under flow: field test or well log Friction losses: pipe diameter, length, fittings Pressure requirement: PSI x 2.31 converts to feet Add these for TDH. Select a multi-stage pump that hits BEP near your required GPM.

Choose the Right Flow Class

Residential homes often run 7-12 GPM. Large homes or irrigation loads may need 15-20 GPM. Myers covers both with 7-8 GPM up to 20+ GPM models.

Verify Shut-Off Head

Ensure maximum head exceeds your TDH comfortably. Myers offers 250-490 ft shut-off head depending on staging. A safe margin avoids operating on the ragged edge.

Key takeaway: Size to the curve. A correctly matched Myers deep well pump runs cooler, cycles less, and lasts years longer.

3. Electrical Integrity - 2-Wire vs 3-Wire, Pentek XE Motor, and Proper Protection


Electrical mistakes cook motors. A start-up check must confirm voltage, wire gauge, and control components match the motor’s needs.

Myers equips the Predator Plus with the Pentek XE motor—a high-thrust, single-phase workhorse with thermal overload protection and lightning protection. Choose 2-wire for simpler installs (capacitors internal) or 3-wire when a surface control box is preferred. Either way, stick to 230V for longer runs and lower amperage with 1 HP+ systems. Confirm voltage at the pressure switch under load. Check amperage draw against nameplate at steady-state.

Competitor note: Grundfos often leans into 3-wire and more complex control strategies in this size range. Myers offers both 2-wire configuration and 3-wire configuration without forcing proprietary controls. For straightforward residential systems, that simplicity trims $200-400 in control box costs and reduces points of failure—worth every single penny.

For the Okonkwos, a 230V 1 HP 2-wire Pentek XE motor was the right call—less complexity and perfect for their run length.

Wire Gauge and Splices

Use the correct gauge for run length per manufacturer tables. Employ a heat-shrink wire splice kit with adhesive-lined sleeves and staggered joints for watertight integrity.

Grounding and Surge

Bond the system and add a whole-house surge protector. Lightning doesn’t have to be a direct hit to fry windings. Myers’ internal protection helps, but upstream protection is cheap insurance.

Control Box and Pressure Switch

For 3-wire, mount the control box in a dry, ventilated location. Set the pressure switch for your tank and usage (common: 40/60). Verify contacts are clean and rated for your amperage.

Key takeaway: Respect the motor’s electrical needs. Myers’ Pentek XE gives you a forgiving, efficient motor—but only if you feed it clean power.

4. Drop Pipe, Check Valves, and Pitless Adapter - Build a Bulletproof Vertical Line


Once power is right, water handling must be airtight and backflow-proof. Leaks, hammer, or reverse spin will end a start-up fast.

Use schedule-appropriate drop pipe sized to your GPM and friction target—commonly 1” or 1-1/4” for residential. Thread sealant must be potable-water rated. Install an internal check valve at the pump (Myers integrates this), and one topside within 25-50 feet of the surface to minimize column drain-back. Set the pitless adapter square and gasketed, and seal the well cap to code.

Frankly, Red Lion systems with thermoplastic sections have far less tolerance for pressure cycling and hammer on discharge. Myers’ stainless steel discharge and threaded assembly endure the micro-impacts that happen in real plumbing. For the Okonkwos, stepping to 1-1/4” NPT drop pipe reduced friction head and brought their operating point right onto the curve.

Torque Arrestor and Cable Guard

Install a torque arrestor just above the pump to absorb startup twist. Use cable guards every 10-20 feet to prevent wire chafe against the casing.

Safety Rope

Stainless or high-strength poly line is cheap insurance for retrieval. Tie to the well cap bracket—not the wiring.

Pitless Alignment and Seal

Clean mating surfaces. Lubricate O-rings with silicone. Confirm a true seat with zero wobble. Air leaks here will mimic pump issues topside.

Key takeaway: Water must move one direction—up. Check valves and pitless sealing are non-negotiable.

5. Pressure Tank and Pre-Charge - Stop Short-Cycling Before It Starts


Most premature pump failures trace back to rapid cycling. Your pressure tank is your pump’s shock absorber—set it right at start-up.

For a 40/60 PSI switch, set tank pre-charge to 38 PSI (2 PSI below cut-in) using a calibrated gauge. Size tank drawdown to match your usage—more bathrooms, irrigation, or livestock mean a bigger tank. As a rule, target at least one minute of pump runtime per cycle; two minutes is better. Large fixed-jet showerheads and modern washers need steady supply, not bursts.

With their old setup, the Okonkwos’ undersized tank (20-gallon nominal) caused their pump to cycle every 30-45 seconds during irrigation. They upgraded to a 62-gallon tank—problem gone. Their new Myers water pump finally breathes.

Check the Tank Tee and Fittings

Inspect the tank tee, pressure gauge, relief valve, and drain. Replace weeping fittings. Seal threads properly and orient gauges for visibility.

Calibrate the Pressure Switch

Verify switch differentials and adjust to match tank and household needs. 30/50 and 40/60 are common. Higher settings increase head and might require a horsepower bump.

Air Charge Maintenance

Once a year, isolate, drain, and verify pre-charge with a digital gauge. Tanks drift. Keep it locked at 2 PSI under cut-in.

Key takeaway: The best pump in the world can’t survive a bad tank setup. Protect it with correct volume and pre-charge.

6. Pressure Switch Setup and Protection - Clean Contacts, Correct Cut-In/Cut-Out, Lightning Defense


A flaky pressure switch ruins start-up with false triggers and contact arcing. Set it up right and protect the entire control chain.

Inspect contacts for burrs or soot—replace if questionable. Use properly rated switches for your amperage and voltage. Mount on a vibration-free tank tee and ensure the sense tube is clear. If you’re in lightning country, add a surge protector on the panel feeding the pump and a secondary unit at the pressure switch box. Myers motors include thermal protection and lightning protection, but upstream protection extends that safety net.

The Okonkwos live under big Western skies with summer lightning. We placed a panel SPD and double-checked the bond at the well casing. Their old pump had no such protection and paid the price during a storm two summers ago.

Switch Differential and Performance

30/50 vs 40/60: higher pressure means more head demand Keep differentials within factory range for reliable cut-in/out Check cycling under typical demand: shower + faucet + irrigation

Wire Routing and Strain Relief

Run conductors through proper bushings with strain relief. Keep splices tight and clean. Moisture intrusion at the switch box is a top failure point.

Contact Arc Prevention

If you notice chattering, verify voltage drop under load. Loose lugs or long runs with undersized wire will chatter contacts and burn them quickly.

Key takeaway: Clean power, clean contacts, and clean switching equals a confident start-up.

7. Flow Verification Against Pump Curve - Match Real GPM and PSI to the Myers Curve


You’re not done at first water. Confirm your new pump’s performance against the pump curve to ensure it’s running where Myers designed it to live.

With a pressure gauge and a calibrated test outlet, measure flow at stable pressure. For a 10 GPM-class Myers Predator Plus Series at a TDH near 240 feet, expect 8-10 GPM at 40-50 PSI at the hydrant. Compare real numbers to the curve. If you’re at 230V and drawing within nameplate amps, you’re living near BEP. If flow is low and draw is high, suspect friction (pipe diameter too small), voltage drop, or a partially closed valve.

For Uchenna and Clare, hydrant testing delivered 9.2 GPM at 48 PSI with current draw right on spec. That confirms sizing and friction estimates were on the money.

Measure Under Load

Don’t test with a single sink. Run a tub spout or hose bib with a known orifice. Time a 5-gallon bucket for accurate GPM.

Record Voltage and Amperage

Read voltage at switch and amps at the panel or control box under continuous flow. Compare to the Pentek XE motor nameplate.

Adjust Expectations with Seasonal Levels

Static level can shift seasonally. Record in spring and late summer. Performance that moves with the water table isn’t a pump issue—it’s physics.

Key takeaway: Numbers beat guesses. A ten-minute flow test validates your entire start-up.

8. Start-Up Flush and Water Quality Baseline - Clear Sediment, Document Iron and pH


Fresh installs stir up fines. Give your system a clean start and baseline your water.

Open an exterior spigot and flush for 20-30 minutes. Watch for cloudiness, air spurts, or iron staining. If sediment persists, consider adding a coarse pre-filter upstream of sensitive fixtures. Pull a sample for pH, iron, hardness, and manganese. Keep the report with your pump’s serial numbers and install notes.

Clare noticed the first few minutes had tan tinting—classic iron disturbance. After a 25-minute flush, water ran clear and the softener handled the rest. Myers’ intake screen and composite stages tolerate this start-up dust better than metal-on-metal stacks.

Protect Appliances and Fixtures

Install a spin-down or 50–100 micron pre-filter if you see grit Confirm softener settings against hardness results Check aerators and showerheads for initial debris

Document for Warranty and Maintenance

File water test results, install date, model, and 3-year warranty details. If a future issue arises, this context helps everyone make fast, accurate decisions.

Iron Bacteria Considerations

If slime or odor appears, treat the well properly. Don’t mask with filters alone. Myers construction stands up better in challenging water, but biology needs addressing at the source.

Key takeaway: Flush and document. Your future self—and your pump—will thank you.

9. Field-Serviceable Threaded Assembly - On-Site Repair Advantage vs Proprietary Systems


Serviceability matters. A pump you can maintain in the field saves days of downtime and serious money.

Myers’ threaded assembly design allows qualified contractors to break down stacks, replace components, and put a pump back in service without full replacement. That’s the beauty of a field serviceable design. Seals, wear rings, and stage components can be addressed quickly, and you’re not locked into a proprietary dealer-only ecosystem.

Contrast that with certain Franklin Electric submersible setups that often steer owners toward proprietary control boxes and service channels. Myers keeps the system accessible so any competent well contractor can diagnose and repair on-site. Less time waiting, more time with water. In rural living, that speed is worth every single penny.

When a neighbor recommended a Franklin-only service route, Uchenna called me first. With Myers, he’s not married to a single dealer to get help. PSAM supports parts and technical guidance promptly.

Stock the Essentials

Keep a spare pressure switch, a splice kit, and a relief valve on hand. If you’re remote, consider a spare control box for 3-wire setups.

Keep Serial Numbers Handy

Field service moves faster when the tech knows your exact Predator Plus Series model and staging. Tape a record inside the panel door.

PSAM Support

We stock common parts and can overnight what you need. Our documentation library includes pump curves and manuals for easy reference.

Key takeaway: Serviceable pumps minimize downtime. Myers designed the Predator Plus for real-world maintenance.

10. Warranty, Certifications, and Documentation - Lock in 3 Years of Confidence


A proper start-up includes paperwork. Myers gives you protection others simply don’t.

Register your 3-year warranty. Myers/Pentair backs their equipment with coverage that beats typical 12–18 month competitors. The Predator Plus is UL listed, CSA certified, and NSF compliant, manufactured in the USA with quality controls that show up in the field. Snapshot your install: pump model, depth, static/drawdown, tank size, switch settings, voltage/amp readings, and initial flow test. Keep it with your property records.

Compared to Wayne Pumps’ 1-year warranties, the Myers coverage dramatically reduces lifetime risk—especially for homeowners far from service hubs. Fewer replacements, stronger support, lower lifetime cost. That reliability is worth every single penny.

The Okonkwos registered day one through PSAM’s link. Three years of coverage, and a system that should easily run 8–15 years with routine care.

Certs That Matter

Third-party certifications aren’t fluff. They’re a sign the product meets safety and performance standards under scrutiny—especially important for drinking water systems.

Keep a Maintenance Log

Record tank pre-charge checks, pressure switch adjustments, and any service. Warranty claims (rare with Myers) go smoother with clear history.

Save the Pump Curve

Print your pump curve and file it. Future diagnostics are faster when you can compare new readings to day-one numbers.

Key takeaway: Paperwork protects you. Myers’ warranty and certifications reflect the build quality you just installed.

11. Accessories That Extend Life - Arrestors, Rope, Seals, and Smart Monitoring


Small accessories prevent big disasters. Add the details that keep your Myers pump happy for a decade or more.

Install a torque arrestor above the pump and cable guards on the way up. Use a safety rope. Verify the well seal or cap is vermin-proof and weather-tight. At the house, consider a simple flow sensor or smart pressure switch that sends alerts if cycling goes abnormal. Maintenance is easier when the system tells you something changed.

Uchenna added a Wi-Fi pressure switch monitor so he can see pressure and cycle data from the hangar during harvest season. The moment a leak or valve failure causes rapid cycling, he’ll know—before it hurts the motor.

Check Valve Strategy

Rely on the pump’s internal check valve and one secondary topside. Stacking too many checks can trap water and slam valves closed—water hammer is a silent killer.

Relief Valve and Drain

Every pressure system needs a properly rated relief valve and an easy drain for winterization or service. Test the relief annually.

Lightning and Power Quality

If outages are common, a small line-interactive UPS on the control side can buffer switch cycles and protect electronics. The motor still needs full line power, but controls benefit from clean supply.

Key takeaway: Accessories are cheap compared to pulling a pump. Set your system up for an easy life.

12. Final System Commissioning - A-to-Z Checklist and Handover


Commissioning is your last chance to catch small errors. Run this sequence before calling it done.

Verify pump rotation/flow and listen for vibration Confirm static level, run a drawdown test, and log TDH assumptions Check pressure tank pre-charge and switch settings (e.g., 40/60) Flow test GPM at stabilized PSI and log amperage draw Inspect all joints for seepage; confirm pitless adapter seal Validate surge protection and grounding continuity Flush interior fixtures; clean aerators Review the 3-year warranty registration Provide owners with pump model, curve, and maintenance schedule

With this exact process, the Okonkwos went from emergency replacement to a rock-solid residential well water system that finally meets their irrigation and household demand without drama. Their Myers deep well pump starts quietly, holds pressure, and runs cool. That’s how a new system should feel on day one.

Owner Orientation

Walk through breaker location, pressure switch function, how to shut off water, and what abnormal cycling sounds like. Give clear contacts for PSAM support.

Seasonal Notes

If your region freezes, review winterization steps for outbuildings and hydrants. Keep a short checklist near the tank tee.

First 30 Days

Recheck tank pre-charge and switch performance once. Verify fittings remain dry. Tighten if needed.

Key takeaway: A 20-minute commissioning ritual saves hours later. Finish strong.

Comparison Spotlight: Myers vs Goulds and Grundfos (Materials, Efficiency, and Real Costs)

Material and efficiency choices show up in your electric bill and your pump’s lifespan. Myers’ Predator Plus uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge, and shaft, paired with Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers. This stack resists abrasive wear and holds efficiency near BEP longer. The Pentek XE motor is engineered for high thrust with thermal overload protection, contributing to the Predator Plus’ reputation for 8–15 year longevity. Some Goulds models incorporate cast iron components; while robust in clean water, cast iron can corrode in low pH or high iron environments, gradually increasing friction and amp draw. Grundfos offers premium motors with complex controls, often leaning toward 3-wire and proprietary options.

In field use, serviceability and simplicity matter. Myers’ field serviceable threaded assembly lets any qualified contractor repair and maintain components on-site. Grundfos systems frequently add control complexity and parts cost, and certain Goulds packages benefit most from dealer servicing. Over a decade, Myers’ 3-year warranty, stainless construction, and straightforward electrical options reduce lifetime costs through fewer replacements, faster service, and lower energy use at design duty.

For rural homeowners depending on uninterrupted water, the calculus is easy: Myers delivers stainless durability, high-efficiency hydraulics, and flexible configurations backed by Pentair and PSAM support—worth every single penny.

Comparison Spotlight: Myers vs Red Lion (Housing, Pressure Cycling, and Warranty Reality)

Housing material is not cosmetic—it’s mission critical. Red Lion frequently uses thermoplastic components that can flex and micro-crack under repetitive pressure cycles and thermal swings. In contrast, Myers Predator Plus runs a stainless steel shell and discharge assembly that shrugs off expansion and contraction. Add engineered composite impellers with Teflon-impregnated staging, and the hydraulic stack continues to perform even with minor abrasives in the water. On motors, Myers’ Pentek XE with integrated lightning protection and thermal protection is built for continuous residential duty.

From an ownership standpoint, Red Lion’s shorter warranty window (commonly a year) leaves homeowners exposed. Myers anchors a 3-year warranty, plus a typical service life of 8–15 years, with 20+ years possible in ideal conditions. If you factor in a real-world failure—pulling the pump, repiping, and downtime—two budget replacements often exceed the cost of one Myers installation. The Okonkwos lived that exact math: after three years on thermoplastic, they paid twice—once at purchase and again at failure.

Long-term value comes from staying out of your well. Myers’ stainless build, efficient hydraulics, and extended warranty keep you topside and worry-free—worth every single penny.

FAQ: Myers Water Pump Start-Up—What New Owners Ask Me Most

1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?

Answer: Match horsepower to your calculated TDH (total dynamic head) and required GPM rating. TDH includes static level to pump, drawdown under flow, friction losses (pipe length/diameter/fittings), and delivery pressure (PSI x 2.31). A typical 2-bath home needs 7–10 GPM. For example, a 230–260 ft TDH with a 10 GPM target often lands at a 1 HP multi-stage pump such as the Myers Predator Plus Series. Verify with the pump curve: your operating point should sit near BEP to minimize amp draw and heat. If you irrigate or have livestock, you may need 15 GPM and possibly 1.5 HP depending on head. When in doubt, call PSAM with your numbers; I’ll choose the right stages, shut-off head, and voltage. Over-sizing causes short-cycling; under-sizing overheats motors. Correct horsepower is the quiet, cool-running one that hits your GPM at your TDH without sweating.

2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?

Answer: Most homes do well with 7–12 GPM, depending on fixture count and simultaneous use. A three-bath home with irrigation zones may need 12–15 GPM. Multi-stage impellers build pressure efficiently by stacking incremental head per stage, enabling a compact submersible well pump to push water from deep levels while maintaining pressure at fixtures. Myers’ engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging sustain delivered pressure even as minor wear accumulates. Choose a model whose curve intersects your required GPM at your system’s head (pipe friction + pressure). For example, at 240 ft TDH, a 10 GPM Predator Plus variant will typically provide steady shower pressure (40–60 PSI) without running off the curve. Matching stages to head avoids cavitation and keeps amperage near nameplate. More stages aren’t “better” universally; they’re chosen to hit your pressure at your flow, precisely.

3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?

Answer: Efficiency comes from hydraulic geometry and materials. Myers optimizes vane angles, diffuser channels, and clearances in its multi-stage pump sections so water transitions with minimal turbulence. The Teflon-impregnated wear surfaces reduce friction and hold tight clearances, while self-lubricating impellers maintain performance under abrasive conditions. In practice, running near best efficiency point (BEP) means lower amperage draw per myers submersible pump gallon delivered. Contractors see this at the panel—properly sized Myers systems often pull fewer amps than similarly rated units delivering the same GPM/PSI. Coupled with the Pentek XE motor, which is engineered for high thrust and smooth torque, the hydraulic stack stays in the sweet spot. The result is up to 20% lower operating cost annually when compared to pumps that run off-curve or lose efficiency as stage clearances degrade. It’s engineering you feel in both water pressure and electric bills.

4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?

Answer: Downhole environments are wet, oxygen-variable, and often acidic or iron-rich. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and crevice corrosion far better than cast iron in these conditions. Cast iron forms rust oxides that expand and flake, seizing moving parts and increasing drag. Stainless retains surface integrity, so hydraulic clearances remain stable, efficiency stays high, and pull-outs for stuck components are rare. Myers extends stainless to the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen, giving corrosion resistance where it matters most. If your water pH trends below 6.5 or iron exceeds 0.3 ppm, stainless is not just “nice”; it’s required for longevity. Over a 10-year span, fewer corrosion-related service calls make stainless construction the economical choice. With Myers, that metallurgy is standard on the Predator Plus—so you get reliability baked into the pump, not added on.

5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?

Answer: Abrasives attack stage clearances and bearing surfaces. Myers uses Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers to lower friction at contact points and let micro-particulates pass with less scoring. The engineered composite resists embrittlement and maintains geometry under load and temperature swings. That means the pump can see intermittent fines without the rapid efficiency loss common to metal-on-metal designs. Combined with a well-placed intake screen and appropriate velocity through the pump chamber, wear is controlled and performance remains steady. For sandy aquifers, correct sizing and moderate flow rates keep velocities reasonable, further reducing abrasion. In the field, the difference shows up as steady pressure months after install instead of the slow fade that sends homeowners hunting for rising electric bills and weak showers.

6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?

Answer: The Pentek XE motor is built for sustained axial loads from multi-stage stacks. High-thrust bearings, precision windings, and balanced rotors translate to smoother starts and lower operating temperatures. Integrated thermal overload protection prevents heat damage during abnormal conditions, while lightning protection helps guard against surges. Efficiency isn’t just nameplate; it’s how the motor holds up under real hydraulic loads over time. Running near the pump’s BEP keeps the XE motor in its efficient current band, often 5–15% lower amperage for the same water moved compared to generic motors. That’s less waste heat and longer insulation life. On commissioning, verify voltage at the switch and observe current under flow—when the numbers sit close to nameplate, you’re in the XE’s sweet spot.

7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?

Answer: Experienced DIYers can handle straightforward replacements in shallower wells with proper safety practices, but many installs benefit from a licensed contractor. Consider depth (anything beyond 150 feet gets tricky), pitless adapter work, electrical code, and the risk of dropping the pump. A Myers field serviceable design helps on maintenance, but initial setup requires precise wire splice kit work, correct pressure switch calibration, tank pre-charge, and torque arrestor placement. If you’re set on DIY, PSAM can assemble a kit—pump, drop pipe, check valve, splice kit, and fittings—and I’ll help you size it. Always shut off power, use a safety rope, and follow lift protocols. For deep wells like the Okonkwos’ 260-footer, I recommend hiring a pro with the right hoist, torque tools, and testing equipment.

8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?

Answer: In 2-wire pumps, start components (capacitors) are internal to the motor—fewer parts topside, simpler wiring, and often lower initial cost. 3-wire pumps use an external control box with start components, making service easier for swapping capacitors without pulling the pump. Performance can be similar when correctly sized. Myers offers both configurations in the Predator Plus lineup, so you can choose what fits your site and service philosophy. Long runs and 1 HP+ often favor 230V 2-wire for simplicity. Contractors who want quick service on start components might pick 3-wire. Either way, commission with voltage and amperage checks, and protect with surge suppression. Don’t choose based on myth—choose based on accessibility, run length, and your maintenance plan.

9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?

Answer: In typical residential duty with correct sizing, installation, and maintenance, expect 8–15 years. I see Myers units surpass 20 years in clean-water, well-matched systems with a healthy pressure tank and correctly set pressure switch. Maintenance that extends life includes annual tank pre-charge checks, occasional flow tests against the pump curve, and periodic electrical inspections at the pressure switch and panel. Protect against lightning and voltage sag. If your aquifer carries grit, add pre-filtration at the house and avoid overspeeding the pump with excessive flow demands. Document your static levels seasonally; if water table shifts, adjust Plumbing Supply and More myers pump usage or zoning. Longevity isn’t luck—it’s the payoff for doing start-up and maintenance right.

10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?

Answer: Annually, verify pressure tank pre-charge (2 PSI below cut-in), inspect pressure switch contacts, confirm gauge accuracy, and test the relief valve. Flush a hose bib and time a bucket to verify GPM at operating pressure; compare to your start-up baseline. Inspect electrical connections for corrosion or heat discoloration. Every 2–3 years, recheck static water level if accessible and inspect exterior spigots and hydrants for leaks that drive cycling. After severe storms, confirm surge protection indicators and retest amperage under flow. Keep vegetation cleared from the well cap and ensure the well seal is intact. Maintenance takes under an hour a year and adds years of life to your Myers water pump.

11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?

Answer: Myers provides an industry-leading 3-year warranty on the Predator Plus Series—well beyond the 12–18 month coverage common with many competitors and double or triple the 1-year coverage often seen on budget brands. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. To keep coverage clean, follow installation instructions, use proper electrical protection, and document your start-up readings (voltage, amperage, GPM, PSI). In the unlikely event of a claim, PSAM streamlines the process with your serial numbers and install log. When you weigh warranty length against the cost of pulling a pump from 200+ feet, three years of backed assurance is significant. It’s one of the reasons I recommend Myers for owners who cannot afford downtime.

12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?

Answer: A Myers Predator Plus typically costs more up front, but over 10 years it almost always wins on total cost. Budget brands—think Everbilt, Flotec, or similar—may fail in 3–5 years, especially under cycling and grit, leading to at least two replacements in a decade. Factor labor, new fittings, possible wire damage during pull, and lost water service—real money and real stress. Myers’ stainless build, Pentek XE motor, and efficient hydraulics support 8–15 years of service, with the 3-year warranty guarding the early years. Energy savings near 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP further reduce cost. In many actual cases, two budget replacements exceed the price of one Myers installation by 20–40%, not counting downtime. For families like the Okonkwos, reliability plus fewer truck rolls made the Myers choice the clear economic winner.

Conclusion: Start Strong, Stay Strong—Why Myers Through PSAM Is the Smart Play

New pump day should mark the end of water drama, not the beginning of a new cycle of callbacks. A disciplined start-up—right materials, right horsepower by pump curve, clean electrical, airtight hydraulics, calibrated pressure tank and pressure switch, flow verification, and smart protection—gives your system the best possible life. Myers’ Predator Plus Series brings 300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, and the Pentek XE motor together in a package that runs cool, quiet, and long. Add the 3-year warranty, Made in USA build, and PSAM’s fast shipping and technical backup, and you’re set up for a decade or more of steady water.

Uchenna and Clare Okonkwo now have stable pressure, easier irrigation, and the kind of confidence you only get when a system is sized and commissioned correctly. That’s what I want for every PSAM customer. Ready to start yours right? Call us. I’ll run your numbers, recommend the exact Myers submersible well pump, and ship the fittings you need to get water flowing fast—worth every single penny.

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Pub: 29 Jan 2026 21:34 UTC

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