Mount Pleasant Exterior Renovations: Siding Styles Explained
Mount Pleasant and the surrounding Brant County communities wear the seasons with a certain pride. Winter wind finds every seam, summer sun fades the unprotected, and spring freeze-thaw exposes any weakness in the envelope. When someone calls me about exterior renovations in Mount Pleasant, nine times out of ten the conversation turns to siding. Not just color. Not just curb appeal. The choice of siding ties directly to how the house manages moisture, wind, UV, maintenance cycles, and even resale value.
Over two decades, I have pulled warped vinyl off farmhouses in Scotland, re-flashed rotted window heads in Paris, tucked new board-and-batten fiber cement into century homes around St. George, and installed heavy-gauge steel cladding on Burlington infills where hail is a regular visitor. Every material has strengths. Every profile carries a mood. Matching them to your architecture, climate exposure, and tolerance for Discover more upkeep is the craft.
This guide walks through the siding styles that make sense for Mount Pleasant and nearby towns like Brantford, Waterford, and Oakland, with the real trade-offs I discuss on-site. If you are weighing exterior renovations in Ancaster, Ayr, Baden, Binbrook, Burlington, Cainsville, Caledonia, Cambridge, Cayuga, Delhi, Dundas, Dunnville, Glen Morris, Grimsby, Guelph, Hagersville, Hamilton, Ingersoll, Jarvis, Jerseyville, Kitchener, Milton, Mount Hope, New Hamburg, Norwich, Onondaga, Paris, Port Dover, Puslinch, Simcoe, St. George, Stoney Creek, Tillsonburg, Waterdown, Waterloo, or Woodstock, the same principles apply, though lot orientation and neighborhood context nudge the final call.
What the Mount Pleasant climate asks of your siding
On windy February days, west and north elevations take a beating. Wind-driven snow sneaks into laps that are too loose, and ice dams push meltwater behind anything under-flashed. In July, south and west walls bake. UV cooks lower-grade vinyl, and dark colors expand and contract until fasteners slot out holes. October and April deliver freeze-thaw cycles that test caulking, butt joints, and end-sealed boards. Our soil can be damp, and older homes often lack modern rain screens.
Those realities drive a few non-negotiables that I specify across projects from Hamilton to Cambridge:
Always detail a drainage plane behind the cladding. Tyvek or similar housewrap is not optional. On wood framing, I prefer a ventilated rain screen with 3 to 10 millimeters of capillary break so the wall can dry. This is especially important in wooded parts of Mount Pleasant, Oakland, and Onondaga where shade slows evaporation.
Flash every penetration, especially window heads, ledger attachments for decks, and light fixtures. Peel-and-stick membranes with proper shingle-lapped layering save you from moldy sheathing that shows up after the first winter.
Choose fasteners by material. Stainless for fiber cement and cedar. Coated screws for steel and aluminum. Hot-dipped galvanized ring-shank nails for engineered wood. Avoid electro-galvanized nails for anything that must survive coastal air near Port Dover.
Respect expansion. Vinyl and metal move more than wood or fiber cement. Slots and hemmed edges exist for a reason. I have seen dozens of wavy Burlington facades caused by nails driven tight into vinyl. Leave it room to float.
With that baseline, let’s break down the major siding families and the styles that make sense here.
Vinyl siding: profiles, grades, and where it wins
Vinyl is popular for a reason. Done right, it gives you a clean, low-maintenance shell at the most approachable price point. Done wrong, it chalks, warps, and rattles in the wind. I specify mid to upper-grade vinyl for most budget-conscious exterior renovations from Brantford to Kitchener.
Common profiles that suit homes across Mount Pleasant and St. George:
Traditional lap. The workhorse. Available in double 4 or double 5 inch reveals. On bungalows and side splits around Waterford and Paris, double 4 keeps scale in check. Double 5 can look right on taller two-storeys.
Dutch lap. A deeper shadow line that adds visual interest. I like it on plain 1970s boxes in Burford where a simple profile feels flat.
Board-and-batten vinyl. Vertical panels with integral battens mimic farmhouse language. Used carefully, it suits rural lots in Mount Pleasant and Scotland. It can telegraph waves if the substrate is uneven, so we spend time shimming and furring.
Shakes and scallops for gables. Reserve vinyl cedar-look shakes for accent areas like gables and bump-outs in Ancaster or Waterdown. All-over shake in vinyl often feels busy.
Insulated vinyl with laminated foam backer improves impact resistance and stiffens the panel. On windy exposures in Jerseyville or open fields outside Norwich, the extra rigidity helps. It also adds a marginal R-value, usually R-2 to R-2.7, which is meaningful on older homes where we cannot fully reinsulate the wall cavity.
What I watch for:
Color stability. Darker colors get the calls. Heat-reflective pigments have improved, yet deep charcoals still expand more. If you want a bold midnight look in Caledonia or Milton, we spec better lines with superior warranties and adjust fastener patterns.
Accessory fit. Cheap J-channel looks cheap. On projects in Burlington and Guelph, I order wider aluminum trims around windows and doors to avoid narrow, vinyl-only details that trap water.
Wind rating. In exposed parts of Mount Hope or along open farmland between Oakland and Onondaga, I step up to panels with higher design pressure ratings, fasten to manufacturer’s nailing schedule, and add more furring when necessary.
Vinyl is not a cure-all. If your house carries Arts and Crafts or Victorian character in Dundas or Cambridge, vinyl often dulls the finer details. That is when fiber cement or wood feels right.
Fiber cement: lap, board-and-batten, and shakes with real weight
Fiber cement siding, properly installed, delivers strong lines and sharp edges that hold up to sun and wind. The material does not move much, so joints stay tight and corners look exact. I lean into it on renovations where owners want a painted finish with longevity without the maintenance burden of natural wood. The classic lap profile works on most Hamilton and Waterloo neighborhoods, while board-and-batten suits rural Mount Pleasant to Puslinch.
Strengths that matter here:
Fire resistance. Along properties with woodlots and outbuildings near Scotland, Oakland, or Hagersville, fiber cement’s Class A fire rating often reassures owners.
Impact resistance. Hail around Stoney Creek or ice thrown up by plows in Waterdown rarely dents fiber cement the way it can thin aluminum.
Color options. Factory finishes carry 15 to 30-year finish warranties. I advise light to mid-tones for south and west faces around Paris and Guelph, especially on larger facades, to temper heat absorption.
Details that make or break performance:
Joints and flashing. Horizontal lap needs proper butt joint treatment. I prefer flashing behind open joints, not face caulking. On board-and-batten, we backflash vertical joints and use wider battens at panel seams to keep water off the sheathing.
Clearances. Maintain the manufacturer-specified gaps at roofs, decks, and grade. I see failure at the bottom courses where snow piles against it in Simcoe or Dunnville. Leave room to breathe, then finish the transition with stone veneer or a sturdy trim.
Fasteners and shears. Stainless ring-shank nails or screws, and I cut with fiber cement shears rather than abrasive blades to protect edges and crew lungs. I will not ask a crew to chew through boards with a cloud of dust. It is unnecessary and unhealthy.
Fiber cement shakes, especially staggered or straight-edge, make beautiful gable accents. Full-house shake in fiber cement can be stunning on Craftsman bungalows in Dundas or Ancaster if the budget allows. Weight and cost are higher, but so is the sense of permanence.
Engineered wood: warmth without constant scraping
Engineered wood sidings such as LP SmartSide carry wood fibers bonded with resins and waxes, then coated to resist moisture. Installed with a rain screen, they perform well in our climate and give that wood warmth many Mount Pleasant homeowners want without the scraping every three years.
Where it fits:
Heritage feel. On mid-century or older homes in St. George and Paris, 6 to 8 inch lap with smooth or cedar texture reads as authentic.
Board-and-batten. Stable wide-panel systems simplify vertical work on barns and rural houses in Mount Pleasant, Cayuga, and Jarvis.
What I manage:
Edge sealing. Field cuts must be sealed. I have pulled apart failed corners in Woodstock where edges sucked water and swelled. We keep touch-up paint or factory sealant on hand, and we do not skip it even on a cold day.
Fastener corrosion. Use hot-dipped galvanized or better. I still see black-streaked nails on older installations in Burford because electro-galvanized fasteners were used.
Sun and color. Like fiber cement, dark colors warm up. Engineered wood moves more than cement, so joint detailing matters on wide southern faces in Burlington or Cambridge. We set realistic expectations about seasonal hairline changes.
If you love the idea of wood but dread maintenance, engineered wood gives you the middle course.
Natural wood: cedar and the character play
Western red cedar, once coated well, ages with dignity. It can last decades with consistent care, and it still offers a character that synthetics emulate but rarely match. I specify cedar on projects where architecture demands it, particularly on cottages near Port Dover, infill rows in Waterdown that want warmth, or rural Mount Pleasant renovations that aim to preserve a farmhouse language.
A few hard truths:
Maintenance is not a suggestion. Expect to recoat every 3 to 7 years based on stain type, exposure, and color. South and west faces in Burlington or Caledonia will push to the short end of that range.
Use a rain screen. Cedar needs to dry. I build a ventilated gap behind it so leaves and needles along treed lots in Guelph do not hold moisture at the sheathing.
Species and grade matter. Clear grades on fascia and visible areas avoid knots bleeding through light stains. For budget-friendly projects in Brantford or Hamilton, we mix clear and knotty strategically.
Insect and woodpecker activity. In wooded pockets around Mount Hope or Glen Morris, woodpeckers love soft spots near eaves. We wrap vulnerable corners with metal behind the cedar and keep an eye on attic ventilation that can attract pests.
Cedar shakes or shingles in gables remain timeless. They pair well with painted lap below, a combination I have used in Ancaster and Paris to honor older streetscapes.
Metal siding: steel and aluminum for clean, modern lines
Metal used to be the domain of farm outbuildings and commercial facades. The last decade has seen a strong move toward residential steel and aluminum cladding, especially on modern infills in Burlington, Kitchener, and Waterloo. In Mount Pleasant, I recommend it on homes with a clear contemporary language or where impact resistance is key.
Profiles to consider:
Standing seam. Vertical pans with hidden fasteners. Clean and crisp. Works on accent walls, second-storey wraparounds, and gables. I am careful to balance it with warmer materials, like wood soffits or stone, to avoid a cold feel.
V-groove or reveal panels. Horizontal or vertical, often in 16 to 24 inch widths. This profile plays nicely against brick, which is common in Brantford and Hamilton.
Corrugated. Light industrial look that can be charming on modern barns or outbuildings in Onondaga and Scotland.
Where metal shines:
Durability against hail. The Stoney Creek and Waterdown corridor sees hail pockets. Heavy-gauge steel resists dings better than aluminum.
Fire and wind. Along exposed ridges or near woodlots, metal holds fast. I spec proper trim kits to manage water at penetrations so you are not relying on sealant alone.
Considerations:
Oil canning. Flat metal panels can show waves from thermal movement or installation tension. We use striations or bead profiles to reduce visible undulation, and we do not over-tighten fasteners.
Galvanic reactions. Mixing metals and fasteners without regard for compatibility leads to rust. Stainless or manufacturer-approved fasteners only, and care with dissimilar contact around copper flashings or treated lumber.
Cost. Material and trim packages add up. On a per-square-foot basis, premium metals compete with high-end fiber cement or engineered wood. Spend where it sings, often as an accent rather than a full wrap on tight budgets.
Masonry accents and manufactured stone: grounding the base
While not siding in the strict sense, stone veneer and brick accents influence how any cladding reads. The most common request I get from homeowners in Paris and Guelph is a stone water table up to the first-floor window sill, then lap or board-and-batten above. It works, provided the transition is flashed and ventilated.
Key details:
Support. Manufactured stone is lighter than natural, yet it still needs a proper substrate, lath, scratch coat, and weeps. I add a metal Z-flashing with back leg behind the siding above to shed water.
Freeze-thaw. Stone veneer can spall or shed if water sits behind it. We detail weep screeds and maintain ground clearance. In Dunnville or Simcoe where snow drifts collect, I pull the stone higher to avoid constant moisture at grade.
Color pairing. Busy stone with heavy texture can fight with textured wood grains. On calmer fiber cement or smooth engineered wood, bolder stone patterns feel balanced.
Mixed-material façades that feel at home here
Some of the best exterior renovations in Brant County blend materials without drifting into trend-chasing. A few combinations that have aged well on streets from Mount Pleasant to Burlington:
Lap siding on the main body, cedar or fiber cement shakes in the gables, stone at the base. This combination suits Cape Cods, side splits, and older farmhouses. The shadow line of lap ties the mass, shakes add softness at the roofline, and stone anchors the base.
Vertical board-and-batten on dormers and garage volumes, horizontal lap on the main body. The mix breaks up the mass of wide front elevations in Waterdown or Ancaster subdivisions without looking busy.
Metal standing seam accent walls with warm wood soffits and smooth fiber cement elsewhere. A clean modern palette for newer builds in Kitchener and Waterloo. Keep the metal to 20 to 30 percent of the façade for balance.
Charcoal lap with crisp white trims, and natural tone entry door. Simple, timeless, and resilient to fading. Works from Hamilton’s West Mountain to Norwich farmhouses.
The trick is restraint. Two materials and one accent usually suffice. When I walk by homes with four or five textures, I can tell the owner chased a catalog page rather than the house’s lines.
Profile choices that change the mood
Beyond material, the profile changes the character of your house:
Exposure width. Wider 7 to 8 inch lap reads more rural or coastal, narrower 4 to 5 inch feels traditional suburban. On tall two-storeys in Cambridge with long unbroken walls, a wider exposure can reduce the number of lines and calm the elevation.
Vertical vs horizontal. Vertical board-and-batten lifts the eye, which helps squat bungalows in Paris or Burford. Horizontal lap emphasizes length and can make a tall, narrow façade seem broader.
Smooth vs wood-grain. Smooth finishes lean modern and show crisp shadows. Wood-grain hides dust and minor imperfections, better for homes near gravel roads around Scotland and Oakland.
Trim thickness. Thicker window and corner trims with a back band step the façade up a notch. Thin J-channels cheapen any material. In Burlington or Guelph where buyers notice details, upgraded trim packages return value.
Color and light: managing fade and heat
Color is not just personal taste. It is performance. On south and west elevations in Brantford, Delhi, and Mount Pleasant, darker claddings can run 20 to 40 degrees hotter on peak sun days than light tones. That translates to more movement for vinyl and metal, and it stresses any painted finish.
What I advise:
Reserve the darkest colors for smaller volumes or shaded faces. On a house with a large west wall, consider mid-tone body color and use the near-black on gables or bump-outs.
If you love deep tones, choose materials with proven reflective pigments and strong finish warranties. The difference between economy and premium lines shows up in year three, not week three.
Pair color with roof and masonry. Charcoal siding against black shingles can feel heavy. Softening one element helps. For example, pair deep siding with a medium gray roof or warm stone. In Hamilton and Stoney Creek, a charcoal and natural limestone combo looks grounded.
Test in real light. I tape up three full boards on the sunny face and live with them for a week. Street shade, tree canopy, and reflections from nearby houses will shift perception.
The building science behind good siding installs
A lot of call-backs I see in exterior renovations from Waterdown to Woodstock have nothing to do with the siding itself. They stem from what happens behind the cladding.
Continuous air barrier. Housewrap seams taped, penetrations sealed, and the wrap integrated with window flashing. If wind whips through the wall behind the siding, you lose comfort and money. It also drives moisture into places it does not belong.
Ventilated rain screen. A small gap between the siding and the housewrap speeds drying. On fiber cement or wood, I use 3/8 inch strapping or a ventilated mat. Vinyl creates its own drainage, but I still prefer a smooth substrate to avoid telegraphing.
Kickout flashings. At roof-to-wall intersections, kickouts are non-negotiable. I have opened many rotten corners in Ancaster and Guelph because someone “could not make” a kickout work with the fascia. It always fits if you plan for it.
Window integration. Layer flashing tapes from sill up the jambs and across the head, shingle-lap at each step. Then integrate the housewrap over the head flashing. Siding should not be the first line of defense at openings.
Bottom-of-wall terminations. Leave clearance above decks and grade, then add bug screens at rain screen cavities. In wooded areas around Mount Pleasant and Onondaga, that gap can invite pests if you do not screen it.
Working around existing conditions: real-world fixes
Most exterior renovations in Mount Pleasant are not clean slates. You have a deck ledger cutting into the drainage plane, a bowed wall from old framing, a mix of brick and dated aluminum, or an AC line set stapled across the façade from a long-ago air conditioning installation in Brantford. Here is how we tackle those:
Uneven walls. On old farmhouses near Scotland, walls can wander by 1/2 inch over 10 feet. For board-and-batten or vinyl, we fur out with treated strapping, shim as needed, and use a long straightedge to set a plane. The extra day pays back in crisp lines that do not wave in raking light.
Ledger boards and penetrations. If your deck stays, we cut the siding to maintain drainage, flash the top edge of the ledger into the housewrap, and counterflash with metal so meltwater cannot creep behind. If your deck gets rebuilt, we coordinate so the new ledger lands within the planned siding and flashing layers.
Mixed cladding transitions. Brick below, siding above is common in Paris and Cambridge. The transition needs a Z-flashing with a back leg tucked under the housewrap and a drip edge projecting far enough to kick water away from the brick face. We seal but do not bury the joint in caulk.
Mechanical lines and vents. When exterior lines from older hvac repairs run across walls in Hamilton or Kitchener, we either reroute them through a tidy chase or plan trim boards to conceal them. Wall caps get flashed and sealed, not just caulked.
Window replacement timing. If you are doing window replacement in Burlington or Waterloo within two years, we often time siding after windows to avoid cutting in new trims twice. If not, we build flexible trim details that can adapt later.
Cost ranges, value, and where to spend
Prices fluctuate with material markets and labor. As of the current season, general ballparks for removal of old cladding, repair as needed, and install of new siding with trims on a typical 1,800 to 2,200 square foot two-storey in Mount Pleasant or Brantford:
Vinyl: roughly $8 to $14 per square foot installed, depending on grade and insulation. Dutch lap and shake accents push toward the high end.
Fiber cement: roughly $14 to $22 per square foot installed, including factory finish, rain screen, and metal flashings.
Engineered wood: roughly $13 to $20 per square foot installed, finish and rain screen included.
Cedar: roughly $22 to $35 per square foot installed for bevel siding or shingles, depending on grade and finish.
Steel or aluminum cladding: roughly $20 to $35 per square foot installed, profile complexity and trim packages drive variance.
Accent stone veneer typically adds $35 to $55 per square foot installed on limited areas. Upgraded trims can add $1,500 to $4,500 across a house but often make the whole façade read more premium.
Where spending pays back in Mount Pleasant and nearby communities:
Substrate and moisture control. Fix sheathing rot, add a rain screen, and detail flashing correctly. This is not glamorous, yet it protects everything else.
Trim depth and corner posts. Good corners and window trims are the jewelry. They make even mid-grade vinyl look tailored.
Gable accents. A few squares of shake or vertical board above bargeboards add dimension without breaking the budget.
Colorfast finishes. Premium finishes on fiber cement, engineered wood, or metal hold color and avoid early repainting or premature replacements.
Maintenance reality by material
No siding is truly maintenance-free. The right expectations keep you from frustration later.
Vinyl
Wash annually with a mild detergent and a soft brush, especially on north walls that grow algae in shaded Glen Morris or Waterford lots. Inspect for loose panels after windstorms in open areas near Jerseyville.
Fiber cement
Inspect caulking at trim intersections every year or two. Factory finishes often run 15 to 30 years before a repaint on sheltered faces, 12 to 18 on south and west. Repaint cycles cost less than re-siding and look fresh again.
Engineered wood
Keep mulch and plants 6 inches off the bottom edge. Recoat windows and trims where sun is strongest on three to seven year cycles, depending on color depth and exposure.
Cedar
Plan a stain cycle. Semi-transparent finishes need earlier rework than solid stains or paints. Watch for black mildew in damp corners and wash with a wood-safe cleaner before it etches.
Metal
Rinse salt and grime, especially near roadways in Burlington or Hamilton. Touch up scratches with manufacturer kits. Check sealant at penetrations every few seasons.
Architectural styles around Mount Pleasant and what suits them
Rural farmhouse and barns
Board-and-batten, wider lap, and standing seam accents feel native. Keep colors grounded: soft whites, clays, greens, charcoal roofs, and natural wood at porches. I have redone several Scotland farmhouses with fiber cement board-and-batten below and cedar in gables that blend seamlessly into the countryside.
Victorian and early 20th century in Paris and St. George
Narrow exposure lap, decorative shakes in gables, and stronger trim profiles. Avoid overly modern flat panels unless used as a rear accent. Muted historic palettes with a pop on the door tend to respect the streetscape.
1950s to 1970s side splits and bungalows in Brantford and Waterford
Dutch lap or smooth lap in mid-tone grays or taupes with crisp white trims modernizes without fighting the bones. A stone water table adjusts proportions. Board-and-batten on small porch volumes adds lift.
Contemporary infill in Burlington, Kitchener, and Waterloo
Smooth fiber cement, metal panels, or a mix. Limited textures, bolder contrast, and thinner trims match the architecture. Wood accents at entries soften the lines.
Cottages near Port Dover and Dunnville
Cedar shakes or shingles, or cedar-look fiber cement shakes, feel right. Salt air near the lake nudges me away from cheap fasteners. Aluminum cladding or high-grade vinyl can work where budget rules, but I still prioritize stainless and proper clearances.
Permit, HOA, and neighbor considerations
Most towns across Brant County and Halton Region do not require a full building permit for direct siding replacements unless you alter structure, change openings, or add insulation that alters thickness beyond certain setbacks. That said, heritage zones in Paris and some districts in Hamilton and Dundas enforce material and color guidelines. I check with local planning before residents commit to metal panels or all-black façades in those neighborhoods. HOAs in suburban Waterdown or Milton may restrict bright colors or certain profiles.
Practical neighbor tips from working streets in Mount Pleasant and Cambridge:
Share a schedule. Siding work is noisy for the first few days when we remove old cladding and set furring. A courtesy note helps the block.
Plan dumpsters and parking. Narrow rural drives need a strategy so we do not chew up lawns. In older parts of St. George with tight lots, we stage deliveries in smaller drops.
Protect landscaping. We pull shrubs and reinstall after if they block access, or we build temporary standoffs. It saves arguments later.
Scheduling and seasonality across the region
Siding can be installed year-round, yet some materials prefer specific temperatures:
Vinyl prefers cool to mild weather. In peak summer heat from Burlington to Brantford, panels expand. We accommodate, but it is easier to set ideal gaps in spring or fall.
Fiber cement and engineered wood can go in most conditions. Caulks and sealants dictate the lower temperature limits. We use cold-weather sealants when needed, but I avoid painting or staining below recommended temperatures.
Cedar finishing needs the right window. I prefer to stain or seal cedar within 2 to 4 weeks of install in mild, dry weather. Late-fall installs in Mount Pleasant usually get a protective coat and a planned spring finish if needed.
Metal is all-season, yet frozen sealants and numb fingers make detailed trim work slower. On windy Puslinch or Mount Hope ridges, we pick our days.
Lead times fluctuate. During peak exterior seasons, premium fiber cement colors can run 3 to 5 weeks out. If you want a specific profile or accent, secure it early.
How siding choices interact with the rest of the envelope
Exterior renovations rarely stop at cladding. Think through the adjacent systems:
Eavestrough and gutter guards. New siding without properly sized eavestroughs is a mismatch. In Hamilton, Waterdown, or Guelph where downpours can be intense, upsizing to 5 or 6 inch troughs with larger outlets reduces overflow that stains fresh facades. Gutter guards keep leaves from Mount Pleasant trees from clogging leaders and soaking corners.
Roof edges and fascia. If you plan metal roof installation in Ancaster or shingle replacement in Brantford within the next few years, coordinate drip edges and flashings now. I often replace fascia and soffits with the siding so attic ventilation and intake match the new envelope.
Windows and doors. Window installation or replacement in Burlington or Waterloo goes hand-in-hand with siding. It delivers the biggest comfort jump for older houses and ensures your new trims integrate cleanly. Door replacement at the same time solves stubborn rot at sills that often hides under aluminum wraps.
Insulation upgrades. Wall insulation retrofits, like dense-pack cellulose through the sheathing or spray foam in targeted bays, are easiest when the siding is off. In Mount Pleasant and Paris, adding R to windward walls pays you back quickly. Attic insulation and air sealing around top plates should be checked too, especially if ice dams have been an issue.
Mechanical penetrations. If you are planning hvac installation or heat pump installation in Cambridge, Kitchener, or Hamilton, plan chase locations and exit points before siding. Clean terminations and correct clearances for heat pumps keep the façade tidy and equipment efficient.
A few project snapshots from the field
Farmhouse outside Mount Pleasant
The owners wanted to keep the rural look while solving constant paint failure on 60-year-old pine cladding. We stripped to sheathing, repaired three rot pockets at the sill, installed a ventilated rain screen, then fiber cement board-and-batten on the main body with cedar shingles in gables. Trimmed windows with 5/4 fiber cement and back band. Color was a soft clay with off-white trims, black metal light fixtures, and a stained cedar door. We added 6 inch eavestrough with oversized downspouts and subtle gutter guards to keep maple leaves at bay. The house looks like it has always been that way, and the owners have had zero peeling or cupping through two winters.
Side split in Brantford
A faded 1990s vinyl with wavy walls on the west face. We furred out the plane, chose insulated Dutch lap in a mid-gray, and added a stone veneer water table that wraps the garage. The gables got vinyl shakes for contrast. New white aluminum trims sharpened the lines. The owners later told me their living room felt less drafty on windy days, a simple result of air sealing during wrap and diligent window flashing.
Modern infill in Burlington
The architect wanted a high-contrast facade that would not dent after the frequent hail in the area. We installed heavy-gauge steel V-groove panels vertically on the second storey, smooth fiber cement lap below, and cedar soffits and entry cladding to warm it up. The metal sits on a ventilated rain screen with thermal breaks to reduce panel oil canning. Everything drains, everything breathes, and the house turns heads without shouting.
Century home in Paris
Maintaining character was the mandate. We salvaged and replicated 4 inch lap exposure with engineered wood in a smooth finish, added decorative fiber cement shakes in the front gable, and rebuilt sagging window heads with proper step flashings under period-appropriate trim. The color palette came from historic swatches, and we left the brick foundation exposed. The owner now has fewer paint cycles and a façade that fits its street.
How to choose when you are stuck
When homeowners sit at my table between vinyl and fiber cement, or board-and-batten vs lap, we work through three lenses:
Architecture and setting. What does the house want to be, and where does it sit? A Mount Pleasant farmhouse looks and feels right in vertical board-and-batten or wider lap. A Burlington infill can carry metal accents and smooth panels without apology.
Maintenance appetite. If re-staining cedar in five years will sour your mood, choose fiber cement or engineered wood. If the lower initial cost and softness of vinyl appeal and the house style tolerates it, pick a higher grade and detail it cleanly.
Budget and phasing. If the budget does not fit your dream material for the entire house, use a mixed palette wisely. For example, fiber cement on the main front and high-exposure walls, and quality vinyl on the lower-visibility rear, with matching colors. Or complete the front and sides now, plan the rear for next season.
You are aiming for a façade that fits the neighborhood, endures local weather, and feels like home when you pull in at dusk. Siding is your house’s skin. Treat it with the same care you would give to a good winter coat.
Working with a contractor who knows the region
A crew that installs siding from Dunnville to Waterloo sees the microclimates and soil conditions that do not show up on spec sheets. In Mount Pleasant, I expect wind under eaves, shade that fosters algae on north walls, snow drifting against the west gable, and old framing that demands patience. In Burlington or Hamilton, I plan for hail and heavy runoff. In Paris and St. George, I respect heritage lines.
What I bring to every exterior renovation across Ancaster, Ayr, Binbrook, Burford, Cainsville, Caledonia, Cambridge, Cayuga, Delhi, Dundas, Glen Morris, Grimsby, Guelph, Hagersville, Ingersoll, Jarvis, Jerseyville, Kitchener, Milton, Mount Hope, New Hamburg, Norwich, Oakland, Onondaga, Port Dover, Puslinch, Scotland, Simcoe, Stoney Creek, Tillsonburg, Waterdown, Waterford, and Woodstock is simple: get the water out, let the wall dry, choose materials that match the architecture and owner’s temperament, and install them with the right fasteners, clearances, and flashings. The rest is taste and budget.
If you are planning exterior renovations in Mount Pleasant, and you want to kick the tires on options, I am happy to bring sample boards, hold them against your sunlit wall, and talk through the lived reality of each choice over the next 5, 10, and 20 years. A good siding job is not just what you see on day one. It is how the lines hold straight after February storms, how the corners shed water in April, and how the color greets you each August without regret.