How to Prime a Myers Pump Safely and Effectively

Top 10: How to Prime a Myers Pump Safely and Effectively

Introduction

Cold shower. Empty pressure tank. Silence from the utility sink. When a well pump loses prime, a rural home can go from normal to panic in minutes. Priming isn’t glamorous, but it’s the lifeline between your well and your faucets. Do it right, and your system hums along. Do it wrong, and you’re staring down a burnt motor or a second day without water.

On a rainy Monday north of Monroe, Washington, Diego Talamantes (39), an electrician, and his wife Priya (37), a nurse practitioner, found their crawlspace damp and their old thermoplastic jet pump cracked at the volute. Their 85-foot private well had always been fussy, and myers grinder pump this time the Red Lion housing split after a pressure spike, dumping prime and half the pressure tank onto their vapor barrier. With two kids—Mateo (9) and Lila (6)—and a workweek starting, that wasn’t a luxury problem. It was an emergency.

We walked Diego through a fast swap to a Myers convertible jet pump and then a careful, safe prime. That same afternoon, he had steady 50 psi at the kitchen sink. This guide is the exact process I used with Diego and dozens of homeowners like him. We’ll clarify when priming is required (jet pumps), when it’s not (submersibles like the Myers Predator Plus), how to seal the suction properly, what to fill, how fast to bleed air, where to set your pressure switch, and how to troubleshoot a system that won’t hold prime. We’ll also cover material choices, wire configurations, and how Myers’ design prevents the common pitfalls I see in the field.

Whether you’re a DIY-savvy homeowner or a contractor on a tight turnaround, follow these ten steps to prime a Myers pump safely and effectively—and keep it that way.

#1. Confirm Your Myers System Type First – Submersible vs Jet Pump, Priming Rules, and the Predator Plus Difference

Before you touch a valve, know your pump. A submersible well pump—like the Myers Predator Plus Series—never needs traditional “priming” because it lives underwater. A jet pump (shallow or convertible jet pump) sits above grade and must be primed with water to create suction. Misidentifying your system is the fastest way to burn a motor or flood a crawlspace.

Myers designs both lines to be forgiving, but the details matter. Predator Plus submersibles pair with the Pentek XE motor for excellent down-hole starts, a built-in check at the drop pipe, and smooth ramp to service flow. Jet pumps rely on a sealed suction, intact foot valve, and an airtight priming fill to move water. Your steps diverge here: submersible = purge air from the house side after service; jet = fill and seal the suction side first.

For Diego and Priya Talamantes, the plumbingsupplyandmore.com old Red Lion jet was on a two-pipe packer setup at 85 feet. We moved them to a Myers convertible jet configuration for stability and parts support through PSAM, then primed carefully.

Submersible vs Jet: What to Look For

Identify power leads and piping. A submersible uses a drop pipe through a pitless adapter with power heading down the well. A jet pump sits on a pad or in a crawlspace with a suction line and possibly a return line. If you’re staring at a priming plug on top of the pump body, you’re in jet territory.

Why Priming Matters for Jets

A jet impeller can’t grab water without water inside the housing. Air leaks cause cavitation, heat, and rapid amperage draw spikes. Fill the casing fully, bleed slowly, and ensure the suction line is airtight from pump to well.

Myers Advantage in Real Terms

Myers jet heads have robust volutes and true threads for tight sealing. The Predator Plus line, by contrast, avoids priming altogether and shines in deeper wells with efficient starts and long duty cycles.

Key takeaway: Identify your system. If it’s a Myers jet, read on and prime it right. If it’s a Predator Plus submersible, you’ll purge air on the house side only—no priming required.

#2. Make It Safe First – Power Off, Lockout, and Prep the Pressure System with Pressure Switch and Pressure Tank Checks

A safe prime starts with a dead circuit and a steady plan. Kill power at the disconnect and verify at the pressure switch with a non-contact tester. No exceptions. A pressure switch that cycles mid-prime can fire the motor while the volute’s half full of air—a recipe for cavitation and seal damage.

Next, note your pressure tank precharge. With power off and water drained, a standard 30/50 switch wants a 28 psi precharge; a 40/60 wants 38 psi. Check with a reliable gauge. While you’re there, inspect the tank tee, unions, and isolation valves. Prime is easier when you can isolate the house from the pump and tank for controlled filling and bleeding.

Diego closed the house isolation valve, opened a laundry sink to relieve pressure, and verified zero volts at the switch. That gave us a quiet system to fill and a known precharge on his tank. He called out 28 psi on the nose.

Lockout/Tagout Discipline

Flip breakers, pull fuses if needed, and tag the disconnect. Family members love to “help.” Don’t let anyone restore power until you say so.

Pressure Tank Precharge Pro Tip

Use a quality digital gauge. Check precharge with the system at zero pressure. Set precharge 2 psi below your cut-in (e.g., 28 for 30/50). This ensures smooth pump starts and avoids short cycling that can knock a jet off prime.

Valve Positioning for a Controlled Prime

Close a valve to the home, open a boiler drain at the tank to vent air, and stage the system so you can add water at the pump and displace air in a predictable direction.

Key takeaway: Lock out power and set precharge correctly. A calm, staged system primes faster and protects your Myers motor.

#3. Seal the Suction – Foot Valve, Check Valve, Pitless Adapter, and Leak Testing Before a Single Drop of Water

If a jet loses prime, there’s a leak—or a failed foot/check valve—on the suction side. Air anywhere between the pump and water column breaks the siphon and drains the volute. Before you fill, test and seal the suction.

At the well, inspect the pitless adapter connection. At the pump, confirm a quality check valve (if applicable) within a few feet of the inlet. For deep-well convertible jets, verify the packer assembly and the downhole foot valve open and close cleanly. On shallow wells, a foot valve at the bottom of the suction line must be tight. Seal threaded joints with paste dope plus tape; hand tight plus 1-2 wrench turns on most 1-1/4" lines.

Diego’s culprit was a suction union with a nicked O-ring plus a tired foot valve. We replaced the O-ring, upgraded the foot, then proceeded.

Vacuum Test the Suction Side

A simple hand vacuum pump on a priming port tells you if the suction holds. Pull 15-20 inHg and watch for drop-off. A steady hold means you’re good to prime.

Thread Discipline

Use compatible sealant. For plastic adapters, avoid over-torque. For metal threads, apply a thin paste layer and wrap PTFE tape clockwise. Tight and true threads on Myers bodies make sealing predictable.

Foot Valve Reality Check

If the foot valve weeps, your system drains back and you’ll be re-priming weekly. Replace it once; thank yourself later.

Key takeaway: Fix suction leaks first. An airtight suction makes priming quick and stable; a leaker makes it impossible.

#4. Fill the Volute Properly – Priming Plug, Clean Water Source, and Bleed Strategy for Myers Convertible Jet Pumps

Here’s the heart of the job: filling the pump body and suction line with clean, cool water. Use the priming port (top plug) on your Myers jet. Remove the plug, attach a short hose and funnel, and pour slowly. Keep a rag handy. You’re aiming for a solid fill—no bubbles—right to the brim.

On many Myers convertible jets, that plug is front and center. Take your time and let air burp out naturally. When water sits level at the port, reinsert the plug with a fresh gasket or thread seal. Don’t crank it like a lug nut—snug and sealed is the goal. Open your tank-side vent slightly so air displaced by the prime can escape.

For the Talamantes system, we filled twice: once to fill the volute and suction, a second top-off after trapped air bled out the vent. That second pour is what locked the prime in place.

Use Clean, Potable Water

Don’t introduce surface contaminants. A clean jug or house spigot is your friend. If you’re working a new system, shock chlorinate after the prime is proven.

Watch for Disappearing Water

If the water level in the priming port drops and gurgles for more than a minute, you may still have an air pocket or a weeping foot valve. Pause and reassess rather than cranking the motor dry.

Threaded Port Care

Myers’ true, clean threads make it easy to reseal the priming plug. Use a small wrap of tape and a touch of paste. Overtightening can crack non-Meyers bodies; with a Myers, just be sensible.

Key takeaway: Fill slowly, bleed patiently, and seal carefully. A calm, complete fill is half the battle won.

#5. Deep-Well Convertible Jet Specifics – Two-Pipe Packer, Nozzle/Venturi, TDH, and Pump Curve Reality

Convertible jets feeding 60–150 feet typically run a two-pipe packer with a downhole nozzle/venturi. Priming fills both the suction and return circuits. Confirm the packer’s integrity and ensure you’ve sealed both lines. Calculate your TDH (total dynamic head): static water level + drawdown + friction + elevation. Match that to your Myers pump pump curve to verify the jet stage can deliver your required GPM rating at your target pressure.

Deep-jet priming may require more water volume. Keep filling until both lines and the volute are bubble-free. A brief, controlled run with the discharge throttled can help move stubborn air through the venturi, but only after you’re confident the suction’s airtight.

Diego’s well sits at 85 feet with a static of 28 feet. We ran his convertible jet in a shallow configuration initially, then confirmed the packer option later if seasonal drawdown deepens.

Nozzle/Venturi Matters

The right jet assembly dictates performance. Myers provides matched kits; use them. A mismatched venturi sacrifices prime stability and pressure.

Throttle on First Start

Slightly close a discharge valve to build head and help push air pockets. Watch pressure carefully; don’t deadhead for more than 30 seconds.

Curve Check Your Expectations

If your TDH lands you off the curve’s sweet spot, you’ll fight for prime and waste energy. Call PSAM; we’ll read your curve and hit your best efficiency point (BEP).

Key takeaway: Deep-well jets demand airtight lines and matched jet hardware. Confirm your TDH and curve before you blame the pump.

#6. Power-Up Sequence – 230V Checks, Amperage Draw, and Dialing the Pressure Switch to 30/50 or 40/60

With the system full and sealed, it’s time to bring power back—carefully. Verify voltage at the disconnect (typically 230V for a 1 HP Myers jet). Inspect connections for corrosion and tightness. On startup, watch amperage draw with a clamp meter; you should see a brief inrush then a steady state within the motor’s nameplate specs.

Set your pressure switch. For most homes, 30/50 delivers great performance. Larger homes or higher fixtures may enjoy 40/60, but confirm your tank precharge is 2 psi below cut-in. Run water cautiously at a laundry sink to purge remaining air and let the system stabilize. You want smooth cut-in and cut-out without chatter.

On Diego’s Myers jet, steady-state draw landed at 7.8 amps on a 230V circuit—perfectly within spec. We set him to 30/50 for now; his run lengths and pressure were textbook.

Clamp Meter Confidence

If amps spike and stay high, you may be cavitating or air-bound. Kill power and revisit the prime.

Switch Tweaks

Tiny quarter-turns on the big nut change cut-in/cut-out equally; the small nut shifts differential. Move in small steps. Test, don’t guess.

Listen and Learn

A smooth Myers jet hums; surging or rattling means air. Take a breath and purge again.

Key takeaway: Power up with eyes on volts, amps, and pressure. Proper switch settings complete a successful prime.

#7. Troubleshooting a Stubborn Prime – Check Valve Position, Suction Leaks, and Air Purge Technique

If your Myers jet won’t hold prime, the fix is usually simple but surgical. Confirm a quality check valve within a few feet of the pump inlet (if your configuration calls for one). Verify suction joints again. Look for water running backwards into the well after shutdown—classic foot valve leak.

Purge air methodically: crack a high-point faucet to release trapped air, then a low-point drain to move pockets downstream. Sometimes a small throttling of discharge builds enough head to force air through the jet assembly. When in doubt, refill the priming port to the brim. Jet pumps hate half measures.

We found Diego’s secondary issue—a micro-leak at a galvanized union that looked fine but hissed under vacuum. New union, fresh dope and tape, problem solved.

Thermal Discipline

Don’t let the pump run dry and heat up. Short runs with full water in the casing are fine; long dry runs toast seals.

Suction Side First, Always

Resist the temptation to fiddle with the pressure tank or house until you’re certain the pump and suction are 100% airtight and full.

Measure, Don’t Assume

A $25 vacuum gauge saves $500 in guesswork. Test suction integrity before round three of priming.

Key takeaway: If prime won’t stick, you’ve got air getting in or water slipping back. Fix the path, not the symptom.

#8. Submersible Systems Don’t “Prime” – Air Purge, Predator Plus Benefits, and When to Convert from Jet to Submersible

Submersible systems like the Myers Predator Plus Series don’t need traditional priming. After service, your job is to purge air from the house side. Open the farthest fixture, then work your way back until the spitting stops. That’s it. Downhole, the pump is already submerged and ready.

Why consider a Predator Plus if you’re fighting a finicky jet? For wells deeper than 60–80 feet or with seasonal drawdown, a submersible’s efficiency and reliability wins the day. Myers’ downhole construction— 300 series stainless steel internals, Teflon-impregnated staging, and the Pentek XE motor—delivers quiet, efficient, and long-lived performance, backed by a 3-year warranty. No suction-side leaks to chase, no priming rituals, and far less sensitivity to tiny air intrusions.

Diego and Priya may later convert if their summer drawdown worsens. For now, their Myers jet is primed and stable. If their static drops, Predator Plus is my next move for them.

Downhole Advantages

Cool motor bathes in water, bearings stay happy, and there’s no suction lift to overcome. Energy use drops, reliability climbs.

Check Valve Etiquette

Submersibles ship with an internal check near the discharge; add an external check up top only when code or system design calls for it. Too many checks can trap air and hammer.

When to Convert

If you re-prime more than twice a year, wrestle with suction leaks, or push your jet near its lift limits, it’s time to talk Predator Plus.

Key takeaway: Submersibles skip priming altogether. If priming headaches persist, Myers Predator Plus is the permanent cure.

#9. Materials, Warranty, and Real-World Value – Myers vs Red Lion and Goulds in Corrosion, Durability, and Coverage

When priming goes sideways, construction and materials decide whether you mop up or move on. Myers builds for longevity and stability while you work.

Comparison, Myers vs Red Lion and Goulds (detailed analysis):

Technical performance: Myers leverages 300 series stainless steel on key wetted components and precision threaded assembly that seals true. The Pentek XE motor is engineered for high thrust and efficient starts, helping maintain stable pressure with less heat. Red Lion often employs thermoplastic housings that are lighter but more sensitive to thermal and pressure cycling. Some Goulds models still rely on cast iron components that don’t love acidic or mineral-rich water. Across pump curves, Myers maintains robust head at household GPM rating with quiet operation and excellent hydraulic stability.

Real-world application: In crawlspaces and pump houses, thermoplastic volutes can hairline crack after temperature swings or pressure spikes—exactly what ended Diego’s weekend. Cast iron can pit and corrode in high-mineral wells. Myers’ stainless, smart seals, and UL/CSA certifications thrive in tough water and tight spaces. Field service is straightforward; parts are available through PSAM. With the 3-year warranty, you’re not gambling on off-brand replacements every few seasons.

Value proposition: When water is your lifeline, fewer failures and faster serviceability are hard numbers, not marketing. Myers’ durability, Pentair R&D, and PSAM support reduce total cost of ownership and stress. For a family like the Talamantes, that’s worth every single penny.

Certifications and Confidence

Look for UL listed, CSA certified, and NSF certified components. Myers meets or exceeds these marks, which matter when equipment lives in moisture and runs daily.

Warranty That Means Something

Myers’ 3-year warranty beats the 12–18 month norm, giving you breathing room while you dial in your system.

Key takeaway: In the real world—crawls, cold winters, spring surges—Myers’ materials and warranty keep you online and on budget.

#10. Rick’s Readiness Kit – Tools, Fittings, and PSAM Support for Fast, Safe Priming Every Time

A good prime is easier with the right gear on hand. My “Rick’s Picks” readiness kit solves 90% of the headaches I see on site, and it’s exactly what I sent Diego home with.

Brass priming funnel with short hose PTFE tape plus non-hardening thread dope New check valve (spring style), spare foot valve Union gaskets and assorted O-rings 1-1/4" and 1" NPT couplings, nipples, and bushings Non-contact voltage tester and clamp meter Vacuum gauge with priming-port adapter Chlorine tablets for post-priming shock Spare pressure switch and pressure gauge Heat shrink wire splice kit for quick motor lead repairs

At PSAM, we ship Myers pumps and every accessory you need—same day on in-stock items—so you can restore water fast and safely.

Pro Tip: Label and Log

Tag your pressure settings, precharge, and prime date. If anything drifts, you’ll have a baseline.

Call Before You Dig Into Curves

Give us well depth, static level, pipe sizes, and fixture count. I’ll read your curve and spec it right.

Key takeaway: Preparation turns a two-hour scramble into a 30-minute tune-up. Stock the kit, prime with confidence, and keep water flowing.

Comparison: Myers vs Franklin Electric—Serviceability, Control Complexity, and Real-World Downtime

Technical performance: Franklin Electric builds robust submersibles but often ties you to proprietary control boxes and specific start components, especially on 3-wire well pump installations. Myers’ Predator Plus offers both 2-wire well pump and 3-wire well pump options with simplified controls; many homeowners and contractors prefer the 2-wire route for lower upfront cost and fewer points of failure. The Pentek XE motor delivers high thrust and smooth starts without the complexity tax.

Real-world application: In emergency replacements, sourcing a brand-specific control box can add a day or two of downtime. Myers’ field-friendly approach—with readily available controls and field serviceable assemblies—means you can get water running the same afternoon in most cases. Out in Monroe, if Diego converts to a submersible, a 2-wire Predator Plus removes a whole layer of troubleshooting.

Value proposition: Less complexity means faster installs and fewer callbacks. Between efficient motors, flexible wiring choices, and PSAM stocking, Myers prioritizes uptime and simplicity. For well-dependent homes, that reliability is worth every single penny.

Comparison: Myers vs Goulds on Corrosion Resistance and Lifespan in Mineral-Rich Wells

Technical performance: Some Goulds Pumps models include cast iron components that live fine in neutral water but can corrode in acidic or high-mineral conditions. Myers’ emphasis on 300 series stainless steel for shells, wear rings, and suction screens reduces galvanic reactions and maintains tolerances longer. Add Teflon-impregnated staging that resists grit scoring, and you’ve got tight, efficient hydraulics for years.

Real-world application: In the Pacific Northwest, I routinely see iron and hardness fluctuate seasonally. Stainless construction shrugs off these swings. Pumps hold pressure, stay quiet, and resist binding. Diego’s water isn’t aggressive, but should it trend that way, Myers’ materials give him margin.

Value proposition: Corrosion eats impellers, kills efficiency, and spikes energy bills. Stainless stability and proven staging mean fewer replacements and lower lifetime costs. When the choice is a couple more years of calm service or a surprise failure, Myers is worth every single penny.

FAQ: Expert Answers from Rick Callahan

1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?

Start with your total dynamic head (TDH): static water level + drawdown + friction loss + elevation to highest fixture. Then estimate demand—most homes need 8–12 GPM with peak loads up to 15 GPM. Match HP using the pump curve: for 80–120 feet TDH and 10 GPM, a 3/4 HP or 1 HP submersible is common; at 150–250 feet TDH, 1–1.5 HP is typical. For jets, convertible heads support deeper lifts but lose efficiency past ~80 feet static. Provide PSAM your depth, pipe sizes, and fixture count. I’ll put you on the right pump curve so the motor runs near BEP, minimizing heat and amperage draw while hitting your pressure setpoint.

2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?

Most single-family homes perform well at 8–12 GPM; large homes or irrigation zones may want 15+ GPM. A multi-stage pump stacks impellers in series to build higher head (pressure) at a given flow. That’s how a 4" submersible delivers strong 50–60 psi at the house while feeding multiple fixtures. Myers’ staging and engineered composite impellers keep efficiency up by tightening clearances and resisting wear. More stages = more head; sizing keeps you squarely on the curve where the pump isn’t overworked and the motor stays cool.

3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?

Design discipline. The Predator Plus uses precision-matched diffusers and Teflon-impregnated staging to minimize hydraulic losses and friction. The Pentek XE motor pairs torque with low slip for cleaner transfer of electrical power to water movement. When operated near BEP, this package hits 80%+ hydraulic efficiency—translating to up to 20% lower energy costs annually versus less-optimized sets. Real homes see steady pressure, modest amperage draw, and quiet operation—especially at 40/60 switch settings and reasonable run lengths.

4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?

Underwater, chemistry wins. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion and pitting when oxygen, minerals, and acidity fluctuate. Cast iron is strong but susceptible to rust and scale, which widen clearances and erode performance. Stainless keeps wear rings tight, shafts true, and screens open. That means the pump curve you buy is the curve you keep. In wells with iron, manganese, or low pH, stainless buys years of service—fewer seizures, fewer energy penalties, fewer tear-outs.

5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?

Grit is sandpaper for pumps. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging creates a low-friction, self-lubricating interface that resists scoring and keeps impellers tracking true. When fine sand passes, these surfaces shed particles rather than embedding them. The result: less drag, less heat, and preserved clearances. In practice, I see Myers submersibles hold pressure and stay efficient in sandy wells where budget brands grind down in 2–3 seasons.

6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?

High-thrust bearings, optimized rotor design, and balanced windings. The Pentek XE motor converts electrical power into shaft torque with minimal slip and waste heat. Thermal and lightning protection guard against the two killers I see most: heat and surges. Efficiency isn’t just a number—it shows up as cooler operation, stable amperage, and extended bearing life. Pair that motor with Myers’ hydraulics, and you’ve got smooth, economical water for a decade or more.

7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?

Experienced DIYers can handle straightforward replacements—drop pipe, wire splice kit, pitless adapter, and pressure switch work—if local codes allow. That said, deep wells, long runs, or 3-wire controls are best left to pros. Safety first: 230V circuits, hoisting a 150-foot string, and watertight splices aren’t casual tasks. PSAM supports both DIY and contractors with tech advice, kits, and fast shipping. If you’re unsure, I’ll help you decide what’s realistic for your skill set.

8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?

A 2-wire well pump (plus ground) has start components in the motor—simpler wiring and no external control box. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box for starting and often easier troubleshooting but adds parts and cost. Myers offers both. For emergency replacements and simplicity, I often spec 2-wire. For certain applications or contractor preferences, 3-wire can be ideal. Either way, Myers and Pentair controls are widely available and easy to service.

9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?

With good water quality and correct sizing, expect 8–15 years routinely; I’ve seen Myers run 20–30 with excellent care. Keep voltage steady, set pressure properly, protect from rapid short cycling, and inspect wiring and fittings annually. If your well carries grit, a sediment separator protects staging. The 3-year warranty covers defects and the early-life issues that plague off brands—giving you confidence through the burn-in period and beyond.

10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?

Annually: check pressure tank precharge, verify pressure switch performance, inspect wiring and grounds, and scan joints for weeps. Every 2–3 years: pull and inspect the check valve near the tank and clean pressure sensor ports. After major electrical storms: verify motor amperage and sound. If your area has sand, flush fixtures and inspect aerators quarterly. Staying ahead of tiny leaks and high amperage pays off in years, not months.

11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?

Most brands offer 12–18 months. Myers’ industry-leading 3-year warranty covers manufacturing defects and performance failures under normal use. Paired with UL/CSA certifications and PSAM’s support, it meaningfully lowers your risk of early replacement. I’ve processed plenty of claims over decades; Myers is responsive and fair. That support—plus parts availability—keeps your downtime minimal.

12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?

Budget pumps can look cheaper on day one, but replacements every 3–5 years, higher energy from worn staging, and more service calls erase savings. Myers—between efficient hydraulics, robust materials, and fewer failures—consistently wins the 10-year cost picture. Add in real warranty coverage and Pentair-backed engineering, and the math is simple: fewer tear-outs, lower kWh, steadier pressure. That’s money you’d rather keep.

Conclusion

Priming a Myers pump safely and effectively isn’t a mystery—it’s a method. Confirm the system type, make it safe, seal the suction, fill the volute deliberately, and bring power back with eyes on pressure and amperage. Handle a convertible jet’s two-pipe reality differently from a shallow lift. And if priming has become a recurring chore, step up to a Myers Predator Plus Series submersible and skip priming altogether.

Diego and Priya Talamantes went from wet crawlspace to hot showers in an afternoon by following these steps and leaning on PSAM for the right parts. Whether you’re priming a Myers jet today or planning a submersible upgrade tomorrow, you’re choosing better materials, smarter motors, and real warranty coverage—backed by Pentair and our field support.

Ready to get water flowing? Call PSAM. We’ll get you the right Myers well pump, the fittings, and a clear path to a clean, safe prime—worth every single penny.

Edit

Pub: 16 May 2026 23:06 UTC

Views: 0