Preventive Maintenance Checklist for Myers Water Well Pumps
The shower sputters, the pressure gauge drops to zero, and the house goes quiet. No water. For rural properties, that’s not just inconvenient—it’s an emergency. A properly selected and maintained well pump should keep you in hot coffee and clean clothes without drama. Yet I still get calls from homeowners stuck in a three-year replacement cycle because small issues were ignored until the motor burned, the impellers scored, or the pressure tank failed.
Meet the Bhattacharya family—Raj (39), a high school math teacher, and Meera (37), a nurse—who live on 6 acres outside Walla Walla, Washington, with their kids, Nisha (9) and Rohan (6). Their 240-foot well had a 3/4 HP submersible from another brand that limped along for five years. Low water pressure in the mornings, a control box that ran hot, and fine grit after summer drawdowns were warning signs they didn’t know how to read. When their previous Goulds submersible finally died during a weekend soccer tournament, Raj learned what no one wants to hear: “It might take three days for a replacement.”

We sized them into a Myers Predator Plus 1 HP, 10 GPM, multi-stage submersible, set at 180 feet, paired to a 44-gallon pressure tank and a 40/60 pressure switch. Since installing, they’ve had stronger showers, silent cycling, and stable flow under laundry load. Preventive maintenance is why they’ll enjoy 8–15 years (and with excellent care, up to 20–30 years) instead of rolling the dice at year five.
This checklist is the same one I hand to contractors and serious DIYers who want to keep Myers Pumps running at peak efficiency. We’ll cover stainless steel durability, Pentek motors, pressure tank health, water chemistry, sand control, control wiring, torque management, seasonal shutdowns, leak audits, pump curve verification, and service planning. Follow these steps, and your Myers water well pump earns its reputation—quiet, efficient, and always on.
Before we dive in, quick credentials: You’re working with PSAM—Plumbing Supply And More—your trusted source for professional-grade water solutions. Myers’ Predator Plus Series is Made in the USA, NSF/UL/CSA listed, and backed by Pentair’s R&D. With an industry-leading 3-year warranty and 80%+ hydraulic efficiency at BEP, it’s the well pump I install on my own properties. Let’s protect that investment right.
1. Baseline System Assessment – Document Specs, Sizing, and BEP Using Pump Curves
Sizing is the bedrock of preventive maintenance because every other check hinges on correct capacity and head. Without that baseline, even the best pump will short cycle, overheat, or waste power.
Start by documenting the essentials: TDH (total dynamic head), required GPM rating, well depth, static and dynamic water levels, and actual set depth. Review your pump curve to confirm that your model operates near its best efficiency point (BEP)—the sweet spot where hydraulic losses are minimized and energy use is optimized. For Myers Predator Plus Series, that’s where you’ll see 80%+ efficiency and quiet, steady operation. Note the installed horsepower (1/2 HP, 3/4 HP, 1 HP, 1.5 HP, or 2 HP), voltage (115V/230V), and control type ( 2-wire or 3-wire).
Raj and Meera’s previous pump ran far from BEP—10 GPM demand on a curve that sagged at their TDH. The result: long run times and chronic pressure dips. The Myers submersible well pump we installed plots dead-center at BEP for 10 GPM at their lift and friction losses.
Why BEP Matters for Longevity
Operating at BEP reduces heat, vibration, and stress on engineered composite impellers and bearings. Less heat means longer motor life; less vibration means fewer electrical faults. When I see amps near nameplate and steady, I know the pump and plumbing are matched.
How to Verify Your Curve
Measure static and dynamic water level during a long run. Record pressure at the tank and flow at the hose bib. Calculate TDH with friction losses; compare to Myers’ published curves. If you’re off target, call PSAM. I’ll confirm staging and model selection.
Pro tip: Re-check curves after plumbing changes. Matching BEP isn’t a one-time event.
2. Stainless Steel Advantage – Inspect 300 Series Components, Screens, and Fasteners
Corrosion is the silent system killer. Myers uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—all lead-free and built for tough water chemistries. This material choice dramatically slows pitting in acidic water, resists chloride attack, and prevents seized fasteners.
Once a year, pull the well cap and inspect above-ground stainless components, including any exposed threaded assembly connections and the pitless adapter interface. Check for rust staining, pinholes, or uneven discoloration. If the well was shocked with chlorine, verify the neutralization step was complete—residual chlorine left in high concentrations can discolor lower-grade steels.
The Bhattacharyas’ old pump showed casting corrosion and a partially clogged intake from iron bacteria. With the Myers deep well pump in place, stainless surfaces are clean and the intake screen stays clear with routine flushing during irrigation season.
Intake Screen and Cable Guard Check
Brush the upper vent area and cap clean. Ensure the cable guard isn’t abraded where it meets the casing. If you ever pull the pump, inspect the intake screen for biofilm or grit.
Pitless Adapter and Drop Pipe
Inspect O-rings and mating surfaces for signs of leakage or corrosion. Verify torque on stainless fasteners using anti-seize compatible with potable water.
If stainless looks perfect, you’re already winning. Keep it that way with water testing and gentle chlorination practices.
3. Motor Health – Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor Amp Draw, Thermal Protection, and Start Behavior
A strong heart keeps the whole system healthy. Myers pairs Predator Plus pumps with the Pentek XE motor, known for high-thrust capability, thermal overload protection, and built-in lightning protection. This motor is engineered for long run cycles at high efficiency.
Twice per year, measure running amps at the pressure switch or control box and compare to the motor’s nameplate. Steady draws within ±10% of the rating indicate healthy windings and stable load. Spikes or sagging amps suggest bearing wear, partial blockage, or voltage drop.
Raj saw the old pump running 1.2–1.5 amps higher than nameplate under typical demand—clear sign it was laboring. The Myers motor now holds steady at rated amps with minimal variance under peak use.
Voltage and Wire Gauge
Confirm voltage at the pressure switch under load is within spec. Verify well drop cable gauge aligns with run length and HP—voltage drop kills motors.
Start/Stop Profile
Listen for clean starts without chatter. On 3-wire well pump systems, inspect the control box start capacitor annually. On 2-wire configuration, verify contacts are clean; simplicity is a reliability booster.
If amps are clean, starts are crisp, and voltage is tight, that Pentek XE is set for the long haul.
4. Seal the Deal – Check Valves, Pressure Switch, and Tank Tee Integrity
Water hammer, reverse flow, and pressure drift all shorten pump life. A solid plumbing foundation—starting with check valves, a responsive pressure switch, and a leak-free tank tee—keeps pressures stable and reduces mechanical stress on the pump’s internals.
Test the pressure switch cut-in/cut-out (typical 40/60). Slow cut-in or hunting indicates clogged nipples or corroded springs. Replace the switch if there’s hesitation or carbon scoring. Verify the factory-installed internal check valve in the pump isn’t being compromised by a stuck or redundant topside check causing chatter.
For the Bhattacharyas, a sticky 30/50 pressure switch and a mislocated topside check valve induced short cycles. Resetting to a 40/60 profile and moving the topside check to the recommended location stabilized everything.
Tank Tee and Gauge
Inspect the gauge for accuracy; replace if fogged or erratic. Clean and re-dope joints with potable-grade sealant; avoid over-tightening the 1/4 inch ports.
Check Valve Placement
One check in the pump plus one at the tank (if needed) is often ideal. Too many checks trap pressure and create damaging hammer.
A crisp switch and correctly placed checks will add years to your system.
5. The Pressure Tank—Bladder, Pre-Charge, and Cycling Control to Save Your Motor
Frequent starts murder motors. Your pressure tank is the buffer that prevents rapid cycling. Every six months, kill power, drain the tank to zero water pressure, and check air pre-charge with a tire gauge. Set it 2 PSI below cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40 PSI cut-in).
If pre-charge is off by more than a few PSI, expect short cycling. If water comes out of the Schrader valve, the bladder is ruptured—replace the tank. Install a 44–86 gallon tank for families of four on a 10 GPM pump to minimize starts per hour.
Raj’s tank pre-charge had drifted to 28 PSI. Once corrected to 38 PSI, we cut daily start cycles by more than half. The Myers well pump now coasts instead of sprinting.
Cycle Count and Runtime
Aim for 1–2 minute minimum run times to ensure motor cooling. Fewer than 30 starts per day is a healthy target for residential use.
Tank Sizing and Location
Bigger tanks protect motors during heavy use (showers + laundry). Place tanks in conditioned space to avoid condensation and corrosion.
Treat your tank like the key mechanical partner it is—because it is.
6. Water Chemistry and Sediment—Test, Treat, and Protect Impellers and Wear Rings
Water that’s hard, acidic, or gritty will grind any pump to death. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers buy you time, but consistent testing and treatment is preventive maintenance 101.
Test annually for pH, hardness, iron, manganese, and TDS. If pH is under 6.5, treat for acidity to reduce metal leaching and protect stainless. If iron or manganese is present, plan for oxidation/filtration to keep your intake screen and impellers clean. Where sand intrudes, consider a well-screen service or a spin-down sediment filter on the line.
In August, the Bhattacharyas’ dynamic level drops during irrigation, pulling a little silt. A spin-down filter and mindful watering schedule keep the engineered composite impellers in great shape.
Sand and Grit Mitigation
If you can hear abrasive hiss at faucets, act now. Add a sediment trap and flush weekly during high-demand months. Check the internal check valve for grit-induced wear during service calls.
Iron Bacteria
If you smell sulfur or see slime, shock chlorinate with proper neutralization. Follow with filter maintenance to prevent media fouling.
Clean water equals a long-lived pump. Dirty water is a repair schedule.
7. Electrical Integrity—Splices, Control Box, and Grounding for Consistent, Safe Operation
A strong electrical backbone ensures your Myers water pump runs cool and without nuisance trips. Once per year, open the control compartment and inspect all connections, especially the wire splice kit used at installation.
Use heat-shrink, resin-filled splices rated for direct submersion—no exceptions. At the surface, tighten lugs to manufacturer torque, verify ground bonding, and check for rodent intrusion in the well cap. On 3-wire well pump setups, service the control box: examine start and run capacitors for bulging, measure microfarads, and replace as needed.
Raj found a questionable electrical tape “fix” on an old splice during the changeover. With the Myers install, we used a sealed, heat-shrink kit approved for submersible duty. No more intermittent faults when irrigation kicks on.
Grounding and Surge Protection
Confirm ground continuity from panel to well head. Add whole-house surge protection to complement motor lightning protection.
Voltage Drop
Measure voltage under load at the pressure switch. If drop exceeds 5%, upsize wire or correct the run.
Electrical integrity is inexpensive to maintain, costly to ignore.
8. Mechanical Restraints—Torque Arrestor, Safety Rope, and Drop Pipe Alignment
Start-up torque can twist drop pipe, rub through wire insulation, and chafe cable guards. Myers pumps run smoothly, but physics is physics. A properly installed torque arrestor and safety rope keep the assembly stable—especially important on PVC drop pipe.
Annually, inspect the well cap penetration for wire and rope wear. If you pull the pump (scheduled or otherwise), verify that the torque arrestor is centered and snug, and that drop pipe threads are undamaged. Replace any gouged cable guard https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/plumbing-hvac-brand-categories/myers-pumps.html and ensure the well cap is vermin-proof.
The Bhattacharyas’ previous install lacked a torque arrestor; you could hear the slap on startup. With the new Myers Predator Plus, we used a centered arrestor and new rope—quiet from day one.
Pitless Adapter Seating
Confirm full engagement and no wobble at the pitless. Lubricate O-rings with potable-safe grease during service.
Cable Routing
Zip-tie cable to pipe every 10 feet; avoid tight bends. Keep splices above the pump intake.
Mechanical stability reduces electrical shorts and insulation wear. It’s a small cost with big upside.
9. Leak Audit—From Well Cap to Fittings Kit, Stop Hidden Losses That Drive Run Time
Leaks stress pumps by forcing longer and more frequent cycles. Twice a year, run a leak audit. Close all fixtures, watch the pressure gauge for drop over 10 minutes. If pressure falls, isolate sections starting at the tank tee and moving outward.
Check the tank tee, fittings kit, unions, outdoor spigots, irrigation valves, and any branch to outbuildings. Hidden yard leaks can make a pump “work out” without you realizing it.
Raj discovered a slow weep at a buried irrigation valve box. With that fixed, the Myers pump cut run time by 18% on comparable days.
Pressure Switch Drift or Cycling
If the switch is chattering, confirm no micro-leaks are causing constant micro-draw. Replace any suspect check valves contributing to pressure oscillation.
Vacuum Breakers and Hose Bibs
Inspect backflow devices for drips. Replace cheap washers and re-seat stems.
Leak-free systems let your Myers run only when you actually need water.
10. Winter Readiness—Drain, Insulate, and Protect Above-Grade Components
Freeze damage to above-grade lines, the pitless adapter head, or the pressure switch can sideline a perfect pump. In four-season climates, insulate and heat-trace exposed piping. Install an enclosure for outdoor pressure tanks or move them indoors.
Before first freeze, drain and blow out irrigation zones. Confirm the well seal or cap is weather-tight and vermin resistant, with no cord entry gaps. If you shut down a seasonal cabin, follow a full winterization procedure: break power, drain line, depressurize the tank, and open low-point drains.
Walla Walla sees freeze-thaw swings. Raj wrapped his tank piping and we added a thermostatic heat tape on a GFCI circuit. The Myers deep well water pump stayed untouched while the plumbing did the hibernation work.
Power Continuity
A small UPS on control electronics prevents nuisance trips during brownouts. Verify that freeze protection doesn’t overload circuits shared with the pump.
Post-Winter Startup
Check pre-charge, inspect switch contacts, and run a flush cycle before heavy use returns.
Prepare in fall; relax in winter.
11. Performance Validation—Flow Testing, Amperage Trends, and Curve Recheck After Changes
Any plumbing change—new bathrooms, irrigation add-ons, or water treatment gear—can shift your system away from optimal. Every spring, run a 10-minute flow test from an outdoor spigot. Record GPM and pressure stability. Measure amps and voltage at the start of the run and near the end.
Compare results to last year’s log. If GPM drops or amps climb, investigate. Clogged filters, a pressure tank issue, or a partially blocked line can be the culprit. If the home has expanded, revisit the pump curve and confirm the multi-stage pump matches the new demand.
The Bhattacharyas added a garden irrigation zone; we rechecked their curve and verified their 1 HP staging still sits near BEP at 10 GPM. No change needed; Myers continues to run efficiently.
Data You Should Log
Date, ambient temp, static/dynamic level if available. Cut-in/out pressures, runtime per 10 gallons. Amps and volts during loaded operation.
When to Call PSAM
If results drift more than 10–15% from prior logs. Before adding big demand like a hose reel manifold or livestock troughs.
Measure, don’t guess. That’s how efficient systems stay efficient.
12. Service Plan—Warranty, Field-Serviceable Designs, and When to Proactively Replace Components
Maintenance works best on a schedule. Myers backs the Predator Plus with an industry-leading 3-year warranty, and these pumps are field serviceable thanks to the threaded assembly design. Build a simple plan: quarterly visual checks, semi-annual pressure and electrical measurements, and annual water testing plus control box inspection (if 3-wire).
Replace pressure switches every 5–7 years, tank bladders as needed, and splices anytime they show doubt. Keep spare parts on hand—pressure switch, gauge, Schrader valve core, and a spare check valve. If your usage pattern spikes, consult PSAM to confirm staging and horsepower.
Raj keeps a small spares bin in the garage and logs readings in a notebook. It’s why his Myers 1 2 HP well pump in their small shop (separate system) has been trouble-free for four years and counting. Planning beats panic every time.
Field-Serviceable Advantage
Threaded, service-friendly design allows faster onsite repairs. Avoids full replacements for minor issues—huge lifetime cost advantage.
PSAM Support
Same-day shipping on in-stock gear for emergency replacements. Access to pump curves, manuals, and expert sizing.
Take maintenance seriously, and your Myers will quietly outlast the roof shingles.
Comparison Insight: Myers vs Goulds and Grundfos—Materials, Efficiency, and Simplicity
From a materials standpoint, Myers’ 300 series stainless steel across shell, discharge bowl, and suction screen resists corrosion in acidic and mineral-heavy water where some Goulds Pumps models rely on cast iron components that can pit and rust over time. On efficiency, the Pentek XE motor paired to Myers Predator Plus stages routinely tracks at or above the 80% BEP zone, translating to lower amperage draw for a given TDH and GPM compared to many standard motors. Finally, Myers offers both 2-wire configuration and 3-wire configuration, while certain Grundfos options lean toward more complex control ecosystems that can increase install costs and troubleshooting time.
In the field, that means simpler, quicker installs myers 1 2 hp well pump for contractors, fewer callbacks for nuisance controls, and longer life in real-world water. Homeowners see lower electric bills, fewer mid-life repairs, and better compatibility when upgrading tanks or treatment. It’s not just about specs on paper—it’s how the pump behaves in a gritty, imperfect system.
Over a decade of ownership, you’ll spend less time fixing and more time forgetting your pump even exists. With PSAM support and Myers’ serviceable design, the package is worth every single penny.
Comparison Insight: Myers vs Red Lion—Durability Under Pressure Cycling and Warranty Backing
Pressure cycling exposes weak housings, especially under seasonal temperature swings. Red Lion units with thermoplastic housings can develop stress cracks when subjected to frequent thermal expansion and contraction. By contrast, Myers stainless steel shells absorb pressure fluctuations and temperature changes without embrittlement. Inside, Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers shrug off minor grit that would score standard plastics, protecting clearances and preserving flow.
In maintenance reality, that means annual inspections don’t turn into replacements. The pump keeps its head and GPM through the years, and you won’t be hunting down sudden leaks at glued seams. Add in Myers’ 3-year warranty—significantly longer than many budget models—and the ownership math gets simple: fewer replacements, fewer service calls, lower energy draw near BEP, and steadier water pressure for daily living.
For the Bhattacharyas, chasing savings with a thermoplastic-bodied pump would have brought them back to square one. Their Myers Predator Plus choice, paired with PSAM’s parts availability, is built to deliver—worth every single penny.
Comparison Insight: Myers vs Franklin Electric—Serviceability and Control Simplicity
While Franklin Electric submersibles are strong performers, many configurations lean on proprietary control boxes and dealer networks for service. Myers Predator Plus Series brings a field-serviceable threaded assembly that any qualified contractor—or a skilled homeowner with the right tools—can maintain on-site. Add the availability of 2-wire options for simpler installs, and you reduce upfront costs by avoiding complex controls and limit future downtime when parts are needed.
Practically speaking, Raj appreciates not being locked into a specific dealer path for routine service. If a switch or splice needs attention, his local pro can handle it fast with standard components. Fewer specialized elements mean fewer bottlenecks during emergencies. When your family’s water depends on one system, that agility matters as much as the horsepower rating.
Between pragmatic serviceability and the performance of the Pentek XE motor, Myers drives down long-term ownership costs. With PSAM’s same-day shipping on in-stock parts, you stay up and running—again, worth every single penny.
FAQ: Expert Answers to Common Myers Pump Maintenance Questions
1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?
Start by calculating your TDH (static lift + drawdown + friction losses) and target flow, typically 8–12 GPM for a family of four. For 100–200 feet of set depth with moderate plumbing runs, a 3/4 HP or 1 HP submersible often hits the mark. At 200–350 feet or for multi-bath homes with irrigation, 1–1.5 HP may be right. Cross-check your numbers against Myers’ pump curve to ensure operation near BEP—that’s where amps run cool and pressure stays steady. For the Bhattacharyas’ 240-foot well and 10 GPM target, a Myers 1 HP Predator Plus with multi-stage impellers was ideal. My recommendation: contact PSAM with your depth, static/dynamic levels, and anticipated GPM; we’ll match staging and horsepower so your Myers submersible well pump runs efficiently and lasts.
2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?
Most single-family rural homes run well on 8–12 GPM. Add 3–5 GPM if you irrigate or fill troughs regularly. Multi-stage pump design stacks impellers and diffusers to incrementally add head pressure, allowing a modest HP motor to deliver strong pressure at higher TDH. A 10 GPM Predator Plus staged correctly will outperform a mismatched pump by holding 50–60 PSI at the tank with multiple fixtures running. Staging protects flow as depth increases, preventing the “shower goes to a trickle” complaint. In practice, multi-stage efficiency keeps amperage near nameplate and reduces heat—two keys to long motor life.
3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?
Efficiency comes from aligned design choices: precision clearances, engineered composite impellers, optimized diffuser geometry, and the Pentek XE motor tuned for high-thrust, low-loss performance. When the system operates near its BEP, internal recirculation and turbulence drop, so each watt pushes water—not heat. Many budget pumps lack this tuning and run off-curve, pulling high amps and losing pressure consistency. On our installs, Predator Plus models routinely maintain published head at stated GPM with lower amperage than comparable setups. Over a year, that can cut energy costs by up to 20%. It’s not marketing—it’s physics and good engineering.
4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?
Below grade, everything is wet, pressurized, and subject to water chemistry. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and crevice corrosion far better than cast iron, especially in low pH or high mineral wells. Components like the shell, discharge bowl, and suction screen stay intact and smooth, maintaining hydraulic performance. Cast iron can rust, shed scale, and seize fasteners—bad news during service. Stainless also tolerates shock chlorination better (when neutralized properly). For Myers, stainless is standard across critical parts, which is why I see fewer corrosion-related service calls and longer intervals between pull-and-replace events.
5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?
Grit acts like sandpaper on impellers. Myers counters this with Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers made from advanced composites. These materials reduce friction and resist abrasion, keeping clearances tighter for longer. Instead of grooves forming quickly, surfaces shed fine grit with less scoring. That means your 10 GPM pump remains a 10 GPM pump five years from now. Combine this with sediment management—a spin-down filter and responsible irrigation schedules—and you’re protecting the most delicate hydraulic components the right way.
6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?
Submersible pumps need axial thrust handling to manage the downward load from stacked impellers. The Pentek XE motor integrates high-thrust bearings, thermal overload protection, and winding design that reduces I2R losses under load. In practice, you see steadier amps near nameplate, cooler operation during long cycles, and fewer overload trips during peak demand. That’s how you achieve strong pressure at 200–300 feet without cooking the motor. For homeowners like Raj, it translates to quiet starts and consistent showers—day in, day out.
7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?
Experienced DIYers can install a Myers submersible well pump with the right tools: torque arrestor, wire splice kit, safety rope, and knowledge of electrical code. That said, setting depth, sizing staging, and confirming TDH are not guesswork. A licensed contractor ensures proper pitless adapter engagement, voltage and wire gauge compliance, and leak-free tank tee assembly. If you DIY, partner with PSAM on sizing and follow the manual to the letter. For deep wells beyond 200 feet or complex systems (treatment, irrigation manifolds), hire a pro. The pump is a long-term investment—install it like one.
8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?
A 2-wire well pump has start components integrated in the motor, simplifying installation—fewer parts topside, cleaner wiring, and lower upfront cost. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box containing start/run capacitors and relays. Advantages? Easier access to service the starting circuit and diagnostics without pulling the pump. Myers offers both. For straightforward residential systems under 300 feet, I often recommend 2-wire for simplicity. For deeper wells or where diagnostic access matters, 3-wire makes sense. Either way, Myers’ Predator Plus pairs correctly matched motors and controls for reliability.
9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?
With correct sizing and routine maintenance (pressure tank checks, annual water chemistry testing, sediment control, electrical inspection), expect 8–15 years. Many homeowners reach 20–30 years in favorable water conditions with good preventative practices. The keys are BEP alignment, reduced cycling via right-sized tanks, and clean power with stable voltage. Raj’s new 1 HP Predator Plus is set up to thrive: it runs at BEP, pulls clean amps, and sees filtered water. That’s how you stack the deck in your favor.
10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed?
Quarterly: Visual inspect pressure switch, gauge, leaks at the tank tee; listen for chatter. Semi-annual: Drain and set tank pre-charge; verify cut-in/out; measure amps/volts. Annual: Water chemistry test; control box capacitor check (3-wire); sediment filter service; curve recheck if the system changed. As needed: Re-splice with approved kits; re-secure torque arrestor; replace sticky switches.
These tasks prevent short cycling, overheating, and abrasion—the top three pump killers. Keep a logbook. It’s the cheapest insurance you’ll ever buy for a water system.
11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?
Myers’ 3-year warranty exceeds many competitors’ 12–18 month terms. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. Pair that with Made in USA quality, UL listed and CSA certified components, and you have real backing if something goes sideways early. Keep records of installation date, pressure settings, and maintenance—warranty claims are smoother with documentation. Frankly, the longer term is a confidence signal: products built for real duty cycles come with real warranties.
12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?
Budget pumps may cost less upfront but often fail at 3–5 years, especially in abrasive or corrosive water. Factor two replacements, higher energy use from running off-curve, and emergency labor, and the 10-year cost climbs fast. A Myers Predator Plus running near BEP with Pentek XE efficiency and a 3-year warranty typically requires fewer interventions, sips less power, and endures abuse better. For families like the Bhattacharyas, the combination of stainless construction, self-lubricating staging, and PSAM parts access results in lower lifetime cost—and fewer dry mornings.
Final Word from the Field
Preventive maintenance isn’t glamorous. It’s checking a pre-charge on a Saturday, logging amps once in spring, tightening a lug when you’d rather be mowing. But it’s exactly what keeps a Myers well pump invisible—because invisible means it’s doing its job. The Predator Plus Series gives you the bones: 300 series stainless steel, Teflon-impregnated staging, the Pentek XE motor, and an industry-leading 3-year warranty. PSAM adds the muscle: sizing help, curves, parts on the shelf, and honest guidance.
For Raj and Meera Bhattacharya, the difference is simple. Strong showers. Quiet cycles. No bucket brigades. Follow this checklist and you’ll get the same outcome—reliable water, lower bills, fewer headaches. Ready to tune your system or size a new Myers deep well pump? Call PSAM. I’ll help you pick the right model, the right staging, and the right accessories so your investment is, as I like to say, worth every single penny.