Installing a new shower system
Installing a New Shower Unit
A successful shower setup needs careful planning and a lot of work. In most cases, you will require to do three types of tasks: framing walls, installing the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you should decide on the kind of shower that you wish to install. It is important to establish whether the selected shower can handling certain systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as kept warm water and cold mains).
It is also essential to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The hose pipe and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature level can be changed via the taps. Push-on mixers are cheap and very basic to install. However, although the pipe connection is easy, it is easily removed. Furthermore, it is inconvenient to change the temperature level.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be adjusted through the bath taps. It is a really inexpensive alternative and no additional pipes is involved. Nevertheless, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with inconvenient temperature level control choices.
Manual Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of a manual mixer shower system belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water products are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a range of knobs (in more pricey showers). Although temperature control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the previously pointed out mixers. They likewise need extra pipes of cold and hot water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The tube and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are connected to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to avoid it from ending up being too hot. Among the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of hassle-free temperature control. However, it is the most expensive of the different mixer options.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit consisting of a powerful electric pump that can changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the adjustment of both pressure and temperature simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a combination boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature level and pressure to be adjusted by means of a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they remain untouched by other taps somewhere else in usage within the family. A major downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the alternative of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this problem is dealt with in some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want to set up, the shower head should either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before starting, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. In addition, the drainage system to get rid of the drainage will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable television route and the shower switch will also need to be considered if a rapid or electric shower system is being installed.
Use the direction guide supplied with the shower system to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water supply. In order to safeguard the pipelines, they need to be given a water resistant covering and also fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the general look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there need to be guidance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be switched back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Match Your Shower
The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (in some cases as low as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wooden assistance below it-- potentially made up of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the main and circulation pipes will also have to be raised to meet the new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it needs to be connected into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the go to the shower as brief and straight as possible https://www.diigo.com/item/note/b07gb/4506?k=fa8c1e7aebb7330abf4d0d6757c64d71 so as to maintain optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. In addition, by minimising using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the flow of the water system. You can accomplish this by flexing the pipelines instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaking or disregarding local code restrictions.
# Using pipelines that are too small.
# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not utilizing tape or pipe substance at threaded joints.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too short to set up the shutoff valves onto after the ended up wall remains in place.
# Not properly lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can trigger issues in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.