How to Prime a Myers Pump the Right Way

Introduction: Get Water Flowing Again—Fast, Safely, and for the Long Haul

No water at the tap, the shower head hisses, and the washing machine locks out—that’s when a well system stops being “equipment” and becomes an emergency. In my three decades of troubleshooting, I’ve watched panicked homeowners throw parts at the problem and waste precious hours. Priming correctly—using the right sequence, fittings, and safety checks—turns chaos into clean, steady pressure.

Two nights ago, I got a call from the Balasubramaniam family outside Lebanon, Missouri. Raj (39), a remote software architect, and Emily (37), a pediatric nurse, live on eight oak-dotted acres in the northern Ozarks with their two kids, Priya (9) and Noah (6). Their 165-foot private well has seasonal drawdown, and their aging deep-well jet rig (a convertible setup with an ejector pack) needed a full prime after a check-valve failure. The last straw? A cracked Red Lion priming plug and a suction-side air leak. We switched them to a Myers solution—then primed it correctly—and their system stabilized in under an hour.

This numbered guide shows you the exact field-tested steps I use with Myers Pumps customers to:

Identify whether you’re priming a shallow/deep well jet or commissioning a submersible (and how that changes the procedure) Rebuild suction integrity with the right valves and fittings Use factory features like airtight seals and an internal check valve to make priming hold Set your pressure switch correctly after you’ve chased the air out Verify performance against the pump curve and TDH (total dynamic head), so you know the system is truly dialed in Leverage Myers Pumps quality—like 300 series stainless steel and the Pentek XE motor—for reliability that lasts

If your well water is your lifeline, https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/convertible-shallow-well-jet-pumps-1-2-hp.html this is the right way to prime and protect it—with the gear and support that don’t quit.

#1. Know Your System First - Submersible vs Jet, 2-Wire vs 3-Wire, and What “Priming” Actually Means

A correct prime starts with identifying what you own; otherwise, you’ll chase air leaks that don’t exist or skip critical steps.

A submersible well pump such as the Myers Pumps Predator Plus lives under water and doesn’t need traditional priming. You’re “commissioning” it—bleeding air, verifying a sealed discharge, and confirming tank and switch settings. A jet pump, by contrast, moves water by creating suction in the piping; it must be fully flooded and sealed or it will just spin and heat up. Whether you have a 2-wire well pump or 3-wire well pump topside matters for controls and diagnostics, but not for basic prime logic.

Raj’s old deep-well jet lost hold after a leaky seal; we replaced the suction fittings and rebuilt the prime properly. Once he upgraded to a Myers Predator Plus Series submersible later that week, his “prime” became a brief air purge and a tightness check.

Identify Your Priming Path

Submersible: Commissioning only. Bleed air at a fixture, confirm pressure tank drawdown, and inspect for leaks. Verify that the pressure switch cut-in and cut-out match system demand. Jet pump: True prime. Flood the casing and suction lines, tighten all suction-side joints, and verify the foot/check valve integrity.

Confirm Wiring and Controls

2-wire: Capacitor internal to the motor (submersibles), simplified connections. Faster swap-outs. 3-wire: External control box. Easier for some diagnostics. Either way, prime steps depend on pump type, not wire count.

Set Expectations Upfront

Submersible commissioning: 10–30 minutes. Jet pump priming: 30–90 minutes depending on suction depth and system integrity.

Key takeaway: Determine pump type, then follow the right priming sequence—commission submersibles, fully flood jets.

#2. Flood the Casing Right - Jet Pump Priming Port, Internal Check Valve, and Air-Tight Suction

For jet systems, the prime is the heart of your success. Fill the casing, purge the air, seal the suction, then babysit the pump until it stays in the curve.

Most Myers jet housings are straightforward: remove the priming plug, fill until absolutely no more air bubbles appear, and reinstall with a thread sealant rated for potable water. The internal check valve (on some models and many submersibles) keeps the column from draining back. If your model requires an external check or foot valve, verify it seals with a backflow test before you start. Remember: a tablespoon of trapped air at the top of the jet nozzle can defeat an entire prime.

For Emily and Raj, two priming rounds were needed after we found a hairline crack in a suction elbow. Once sealed, the jet pulled steady at 43 PSI.

Use the Right Fill Technique

Fill slowly. Pause five minutes. Top off again. Air migrates upward and hides; patience removes it. Tap the housing with a plastic handle to dislodge micro-bubbles before reinstalling the plug.

Seal the Suction Side Like a Pro

Use Schedule 80 or quality PVC/CPVC/Brass on suction; minimal unions; no-slip joints. Keep suction runs short and straight; elevation changes trap air.

Monitor Start-Up Behavior

Initial run may surge slightly. If pressure stalls or drops, stop and add more water. Don’t dry-run.

Conclusion: A perfect prime starts with a perfectly flooded casing and a perfectly airtight suction—no compromises.

Detailed Comparison #1: Materials, Durability, and Priming Hold—Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion

From a materials standpoint, Myers leans hard into corrosion resistance and sealing integrity. With 300 series stainless steel on critical components in its leading lines and precision-machined sealing surfaces, a Myers prime tends to hold because the pump resists pitting and microleaks that sabotage suction. Red Lion’s thermoplastic components are light and affordable, but they’re also more vulnerable to hairline cracking under thermal and pressure cycling, which causes elusive air leaks after a few seasons. Goulds offers robust cast parts, but cast iron can corrode in acidic or mineral-rich water, again enabling tiny air pathways that show up only during priming.

In real use, I see fewer priming “mysteries” when homeowners standardize on Myers. Seals seat cleanly, threads stay true, and priming ports don’t weep after you torque them back down. The result? You spend more time moving water and less time chasing bubbles with a flashlight and Teflon tape.

Value-wise, when a prime holds on the first pass—and continues to hold over years—you avoid callbacks, burnt motors, and repeat fittings runs. Myers’ stainless build quality with Pentair’s backing is worth every single penny.

#3. Submersible Commissioning 101 - Bleeding Air, Pressure Switch Setpoints, and Verifying the Pump Curve

Submersibles don’t “prime,” but they do demand a proper air purge and settings check for smooth delivery. When air sits in lines, faucets cough and pressure swings. Your job is to remove that trapped air and confirm the system matches the pump curve.

Open the highest fixture first (usually an upstairs tub). Crack a low fixture next to speed purge. Watch the gauge—when the pressure switch cuts out (say 60 PSI), close fixtures, then reopen one slowly to observe cut-in (say 40 PSI). If your setpoints are off—or the pump overshoots—adjust spring tension on the switch in small increments. Cross-check performance against your model’s GPM rating and expected TDH (total dynamic head) from the spec sheet.

After Raj converted to a Predator Plus Series 3/4 HP submersible, we commissioned by bleeding upstairs first. Air cleared in eight minutes, and cut-in/cut-out hit 40/60 PSI exactly.

Purge from High to Low

Start high fixtures first to vent air pockets. Finish with the hose bib for a fast line sweep.

Dial In the Pressure Switch

Small clockwise turns increase both cut-in and cut-out. Always record baseline settings before changes. For 40/60 PSI, check tank precharge at 38 PSI with system off and drained.

Verify Against the Pump Curve

Gauge recovery should match expected performance at your head conditions. Any lag suggests partially closed valves, tank issues, or clogged strainers.

Bottom line: Purge smartly, set the switch accurately, and confirm output against the curve.

#4. Protect the Prime - Check Valves, Foot Valves, and Suction Geometry That Won’t Fail Overnight

Priming only sticks when your valves and suction geometry are right. A tired foot valve or an undersized line lets air creep back and erases all your work.

Every jet system needs a solid sealing strategy. An external check or foot valve must hold overnight—no measurable pressure drop. Keep suction lines short, straight, and level when possible; avoid elbows near the pump face. In deep-well jet systems, the downhole ejector pack must be mated to the injector kit the pump is designed for—random pairings cause anemic lift and endless re-primes.

Emily reported morning pressure dips before the Myers upgrade; we found the old foot valve weeping just enough to introduce air. Replacing it ended the daily reprimes and stabilized their morning showers.

Valve Sizing and Placement

Use full-port checks sized to your suction line. Undersizing increases velocity and entrains air. Place checks close to the water source for faster, stabler primes.

Line Sizing and Material

Use proper diameter suction; never neck down near the pump. Avoid flexible hose on suction—it breathes under vacuum and sucks in air.

Overnight Holding Test

Prime and run. Shut off overnight with the discharge valve closed. If the gauge drops, find the leak before sunrise.

Result: Lock in the prime with the right valve, the right pipe, and the right geometry.

#5. Commissioning a Myers Predator Plus Submersible - Stainless Construction, Pentek XE Motor, and Threaded Assembly Benefits

Once you install a Predator Plus Series submersible, your “prime” becomes a one-time commissioning exercise. You’ll appreciate the threaded assembly that’s truly serviceable in the field, the rugged 300 series stainless steel construction that shrugs off corrosive water, and the efficient Pentek XE motor that holds steady voltage and heat under load.

Commissioning is simple: bleed air, validate tank precharge, confirm switch cut-in/cut-out, and match performance with the pump curve. Long-term, the stainless build resists pitting that can shed debris into the lines. That, combined with the motor’s robust torque at start, gives stable flow through seasonal water level swings.

After Raj’s conversion to a 3/4 HP Predator Plus at 165 feet with 40/60 settings, the system delivered smooth pressure with zero re-bleeds for the next week—even through dishwashing peaks.

Why Stainless and XE Matter

Stainless combats aggressive water chemistry; the XE motor holds efficiency as temperature fluctuates. That steadiness keeps pressure consistent through showers, sprinklers, and laundry.

Service Simplicity

Threaded sections make on-site disassembly possible if you ever need to swap stages or inspect components. No dealer-only lockouts. Trained pros can service in one trip.

Quiet, Predictable Commissioning

Minimal air burping. Fast stabilization. Motor pulls cleanly to BEP for lower energy use.

Conclusion: A Myers submersible turns “priming” into a quick, repeatable commissioning checklist.

Detailed Comparison #2: Control Complexity and Service Reality—Myers vs Franklin Electric and Red Lion

Control systems and service pathways drive real-world downtime. Myers gives you options—simple 2-wire submersibles with integrated starting components or 3-wire setups with external controls—without locking you into proprietary boxes. Franklin Electric often pairs pumps with branded controls and a dealer-centric service model, which can be excellent quality but less DIY-flexible in an emergency. Red Lion’s value-tier offerings are easier to acquire at a big-box, but in my field notes, their thermoplastic parts and lighter-duty controls struggle long-term under frequent cycling and voltage swings.

In practice, a Myers submersible with a robust pressure tank and well-calibrated switch starts cleaner, runs cooler, and is straightforward to troubleshoot. You get steady pressure, fewer nuisance trips, and—importantly—field-serviceable design that doesn’t force a full-unit replacement when a staged component needs attention.

When water is life, you measure value in uptime and parts availability. With Myers’ serviceable assemblies and Pentair-backed reliability, the extra upfront investment saves you repeat trips to the store and mid-season outages. For anyone off the municipal grid, that’s worth every single penny.

#6. Pressure Tank and Switch Harmony - Precharge, Cut-In/Cut-Out, and Cycling Control That Saves Motors

Your prime won’t last if the control components are fighting the hydraulics. The tank and switch must harmonize with the pump’s output.

Set the tank precharge 2 PSI below cut-in. For 40/60, that’s 38 PSI (tank drained, system off). Verify the pressure switch contacts are clean and the tube/port aren’t clogged. For submersibles, confirm slow, even starts that align with the pump curve at your system’s TDH (total dynamic head). For jets, pay special attention to short-cycling during prime recovery—if the switch bounces, widen the differential or correct suction issues.

Emily’s switch had drifted to 42/64, and the tank sat at 33 PSI. We reset to a true 40/60 with a 38 PSI precharge; cycling normalized, and the Myers system ran quietly for hours.

Precharge First, Always

Drain the tank, then set pressure. Don’t adjust live or full. Use a quality digital gauge for exact results.

Switch Calibration

Adjust large spring for overall rise, small spring for differential. Log changes. Replace pitted contacts—they rob voltage and overheat motors.

Cycle Time Targets

Aim for 60–90 seconds minimum between starts under normal household demand. Faster than that? You’re burning motor life.

Takeaway: Tank and switch in balance turn a finicky system into a quiet, long-lived one.

#7. Leak-Proof from Wellhead to Kitchen Sink - Pitless, Drop, and Discharge Checks That Keep Air Out

If air gets in, your prime fails—every time. A thorough leak audit from well cap to fixtures prevents frustrating re-primes and pressure drift.

Start at the wellhead. Confirm the pitless connection seats and seals; inspect O-rings. Run the drop pipe up/down gently—any catch can indicate cracked couplings. Inside, scan every threaded fitting for staining or mineral trails that signal weeping. Replace any tired unions with solid couplings on suction side. Submersible systems: inspect the barbed connection and clamps near the tank tee; any microleak lets air accumulate and makes commissioning drag on.

Raj’s interior discharge had a tiny drip at a decades-old union. Tightened and taped, it sealed. Pressure held overnight at 54 PSI without a blip.

Wellhead and Pitless Integrity

Ensure the well cap is intact and vermin-proof—contamination and air leaks often ride together. Pitless alignment should be firm with no wobble.

Drop Pipe and Cable Dress

Properly support with a torque relief method to avoid twisting at start-ups. Replace any suspicious sections before they cost you a pull.

Inside the Utility Room

Tank tee, gauge, relief valve, and bypasses—tighten, paste, and test. Use soapy water on suspect joints for bubble checks.

Conclusion: Eliminate leaks, and you eliminate 90% of post-prime headaches.

#8. Final Verification and Warranty Confidence - Performance Check, Flow Tests, and Myers’ 3-Year Warranty Peace of Mind

Before you put away the tools, prove the system. Document flow rates, recovery, and pressure behavior so you know your prime—and your pump—are healthy.

Time a 5-gallon draw from a hose bib; compare against your model’s GPM rating while noting pressure fall and recovery to cut-in. Log amperage at steady-state to ensure the Pentek XE motor sits in its expected band. Finally, keep a record of your prime/commission steps and baseline data. If anything drifts, you’ll spot issues early.

Back all this with Myers’ 3-year warranty, factory testing, and Predator Plus Series build myers jet pump quality. With 300 series stainless steel and truly serviceable threaded assembly designs, you’re not betting your water on disposable hardware.

Emily saved her commissioning checklist. A month later, a sprinkler zone add-on went smoothly because she knew exactly how the system performed from day one.

Field Test the Flow

Hose-bib timed draw + gauge readings = real-world confidence. Repeat seasonally when water levels change.

Record Electrical Health

Voltage and amperage under load tell the truth about motor stress. Deviations hint at tank or switch drift, not just pump issues.

Lean on the Warranty and Support

Myers’ coverage paired with PSAM’s tech guidance makes ownership simple. If something’s off, you’re covered—and you’ve got data.

Final word: Verify, document, and rest easy—your prime and your Myers are built to last.

Detailed Comparison #3: Warranty, Efficiency, and Real-World Costs—Myers vs Goulds and Franklin Electric

Efficiency and protection add up over years. Myers’ 3-year warranty outclasses many standard packages, reducing your exposure to early-life defects. Efficiency matters too: with the Pentek XE motor driving optimized hydraulics, Myers runs cool and steady near its BEP, which keeps electrical bills in check. Goulds builds solid pumps, but corrosion-prone cast components and shorter standard warranties in some configurations add lifecycle risk in aggressive water. Franklin Electric is an engineering leader, yet owners sometimes pair their pumps with proprietary control ecosystems; excellent hardware, but less flexible in the field for rapid DIY-friendly service.

In day-to-day use, a Myers system with tuned tank/switch harmony avoids short-cycling that murders motors and kills efficiency. Over ten years, fewer replacements, lower energy waste, and real warranty support translate into predictable costs and fewer urgent calls.

When your well is your only water source, predictability is priceless. Myers’ stainless build, smart motors, and field-ready service approach deliver reliability that’s worth every single penny.

FAQ: Field-Tested Answers to Your Most Important Myers Priming Questions

1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?

Start with your well depth, static water level, and vertical lift to your pressure tank to estimate system head. Then add friction losses from piping, elbows, and fixtures. The total is your working head, expressed as feet of head or PSI (2.31 feet per PSI). Cross-reference that number with the model’s pump curve and desired household flow—most homes need 7–12 GPM for normal use. For example, a 165-foot well with a static level at 90 feet and a 40/60 PSI house might land at roughly 180–220 feet of head under flow. A properly staged 3/4 HP Myers submersible well pump in the Predator Plus Series typically covers that sweet spot efficiently. Larger homes with irrigation or livestock demands sometimes step to 1 HP. My recommendation: call PSAM with your exact numbers; we’ll read curves with you and pick horsepower that runs near BEP, not just “big enough.” Running at BEP extends motor life and keeps energy costs down.

2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?

Most households do well with a GPM rating between 7 and 12. A shower pulls about 2–2.5 GPM, dishwashers 1–2 GPM, clothes washers 2–3 GPM. If two showers and a washer run together, 7–8 GPM keeps everyone happy. Pressure is created by stacked, or “multi-stage,” impellers that add head with each stage. More stages equal more pressure at a given flow. That’s why a 10 GPM, 3/4 HP submersible with the right number of stages can comfortably maintain 40/60 PSI in a 150–200 foot application. Myers’ stage geometry is tuned to deliver strong head without wasting wattage. Rick’s tip: don’t chase flow alone; match stages and horsepower to your head so the pump sits in the thick of its curve where it’s happy and efficient.

3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?

Hydraulic efficiency comes from smooth internal passages, tight clearances, and low-loss impeller design. The Predator Plus Series uses refined stage geometry and structured diffuser paths so the water doesn’t slosh or recirculate. Combine that with the Pentek XE motor that holds torque under load and you get tight power alignment near the BEP. On a properly sized installation, it’s normal to see operating-cost savings versus less efficient setups—often shaving 15–20% off energy use over the year. Efficiency is about system design, too: a right-sized tank that reduces starts, a clean pressure switch, and leak-free piping let the hydraulics do their job. I’ve retrofitted many homes to Predator Plus and watched the utility bills reflect the difference.

4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?

Submersibles live in water, often with minerals, acidity, or bacterial activity that attack iron. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion and pitting, so parts don’t flake, swell, or seize. That means seals last, tolerances stay tight, and priming/commissioning problems tied to debris are minimized. In iron-rich or low-pH wells, cast parts can corrode, making tear-downs difficult and compromising longevity. Stainless also stands up to thermal cycles when water levels fluctuate seasonally. From a maintenance perspective, stainless hardware loosens and reassembles without drama, which matters if you ever service the pump. Myers leans on quality stainless in its premium lines because it keeps pumps in the water, not on the bench.

5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?

Myers’ engineered stages use self-lubricating impellers and Teflon-impregnated surfaces so microscopic abrasives glide rather than chew. In sandy wells, ordinary composites scuff quickly, raising clearances and reducing head. With Teflon-impregnation, surface friction drops, heat lowers, and edges stay true longer. That protects your stages from premature wear and keeps you on the original pump curve for more years. If you’re dealing with grit, add a sediment filter topside and consider a slower recovery rate to reduce entrainment. Best of all, these durable impellers support the kind of 8–15 year lifespans I routinely see on Myers installs—longer if you keep the tank and switch tuned.

6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?

The Pentek XE motor is engineered for strong starting torque and efficient continuous run at the pump’s design load. High-thrust bearings handle the axial load of stacked stages without overheating. Winding design, lamination quality, and cooling pathways are tuned so the motor doesn’t waste power as heat. When a motor holds voltage and amperage in a tight band across typical household demand, you get smooth pressure and lower bills. Pair it with a right-sized pressure tank to reduce start frequency and you’ll add years to its life. I’ve seen XE motors come through lightning scares and thermal spikes better than bargain options—protection that shows up in fewer service calls.

7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?

Many competent DIYers can install a submersible with careful planning, proper tools, and safety discipline. You’ll need to pull and set the assembly safely, manage wire splices with waterproof heat-shrink kits, set the tank precharge, calibrate the pressure switch, and verify commissioning. That said, a 150–300 foot pull, or any installation with known well obstructions, is best left to a licensed contractor with lifting gear. If you DIY, PSAM can kit you with the pump, drop pipe, rope, torque relief, splice materials, and fittings—plus my exact commissioning checklist. For electrical tie-ins, always follow local code. If you’re not comfortable reading amp draw and diagnosing cut-in/out behavior, hire a pro to start it up. A well-commissioned day-one install pays you back for a decade.

8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?

A 2-wire well pump integrates the start components in the motor, simplifying wiring and minimizing parts outside the well. That’s great for straightforward replacements and clean utility rooms. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box for start/run capacitors and relays, making some diagnostics and component swaps easier without pulling the pump. Performance can be excellent in both. Choose based on service preference and your installer’s recommendation. For most homeowners, 2-wire is the least complex and perfectly reliable. For contractors managing fleets of installs, 3-wire can simplify troubleshooting. Either way, the Myers hydraulics and motor pairing do the heavy lifting; what matters most is proper sizing and commissioning.

9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance, and what maintenance matters most?

With correct sizing, quality power, and a tuned tank/switch, 8–15 years is a realistic baseline on the Predator Plus Series—and I’ve seen 20+ with excellent care. Maintenance that matters: set tank precharge 2 PSI below cut-in; keep the pressure switch clean and calibrated; fix any weeping joints immediately; and annual-check amp draw against your day-one baseline. If your well produces sand seasonally, add or service your sediment filtration to protect the stages. Lightning-prone areas should consider surge protection. Document your commissioning numbers—GPM, pressure behavior, and amperage—and compare annually. Catching a 10% drift early usually means a five-minute tweak, not a premature replacement.

Conclusion: Prime Once, Commission Right, and Let Myers Do the Work

A reliable prime isn’t a mystery—it’s a method. Flood the jet housing completely, eliminate suction leaks, calibrate tank and switch, and verify performance against the pump curve. Commission submersibles by bleeding air, setting precharge, and confirming steady pressure at your operating TDH (total dynamic head). Do it the way I do it in the field, and you’ll only do it once.

This is why I recommend Myers Pumps through PSAM: durable 300 series stainless steel, efficient Pentek XE motor drive, serviceable threaded assembly, flexible 2- or 3-wire options, and a no-nonsense 3-year warranty that keeps homeowners like Raj and Emily confident season after season. If you need help sizing, kitting, or commissioning, call my desk at Plumbing Supply And More. We’ll get you primed the right way—and keep it that way.

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Pub: 24 May 2026 21:27 UTC

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